=The Warwick Streamer Club=

jester said:
There's also the Streamer $$, but it has a different pickup configuration:

warwick-streamer-4-swamp-ash-natural-oil-gold-2.jpg
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oh a 2 humbucker config :) my friend out here plays the corvette version $$
im sure those split so single coil should be no problem, thanks jester
 
Btw it doesn’t sound much different from a regular SS2. A bit more warm and broader sound, but still the same cup of tea. Seems the neck makes the difference from the SS1.
 
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Hardy said:
Btw it doesn’t sound much different from a regular SS2. A bit more warm and broader sound, but still the same cup of tea. Seems the neck makes the difference from the SS1.
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i dont know for sure why, theres something about an ash maple combination that i like, its my main bass :) it just "handles" the strings better, cant explain, also theres some top end thats not there in the other basses (alder) that i have
I heard walnut comes close :)
 
..also i use 40-95 and Eb tuning and that bass handles that the best
 
adi said:
..also i use 40-95 and Eb tuning and that bass handles that the best
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Wow so light and also detuned. I play 40s too but would never consider down tuning them, I think they are (almost) too loose already.
 
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FunkyMan said:
Well guys, we are few, compared with the brothers of "The Thumb Club" but I know that there are several Forumers that possess them, so this thread is dedicated in my opinion for one of the most beautiful basses that has been built in history 8) STREAMERS 8) (Spector could be first, but our models are more stylized sorry :lol: ...) You can give your opinion, criticism, comments, Put photos, from the rockbasses, standarts, until SSII or P-nut!

Here's mine: Cheers :D
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Hey, Streamer folks! I recently acquired a (Rockbass) Streamer Standard 4 (2014 or '15).

While I've been playing/practicing guitar for years this is my first bass and journey into the "bass realm." I choose Warwick as a means to secure a quality instrument closer to the mid level grade. Before this, I was looking at the following models for a solution:

- Sterling by Music Man S.U.B. StingRay
- Gretsch Guitars G2220 Electromatic Junior Jet Bass II
- a few of Schector's entry level offerings

I steered into the Warwick direction after finding some "B Stock" models selling w/in the low entry level price range. Prior to this, I've had some pretty good luck w/ purchasing used guitars. The idea of B Stock seemed great considering I would be getting a "new" instrument (i.e. no previous ownership to anyone). I was willing to look past any subtle cosmetic blemishes, etc. as long as I could be assured that it was fully functional requiring no further intervention or investment on my end. Also, I understood that the B Stock notoriety would be limiting in terms of me selling it in the future.
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Here’s a current example of one of these B Stock models (being sold by the shop that I purchased mine from):


Warwick RockBass Streamer Standard 4-String Bass (Black High Polish)

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I’ve had mine for a couple of months now and, I think, I’ve got it setup properly. I do setups on my guitars and have the basics when it comes to tools and measuring devices (e.g. files, feeler gauges, radius gauges, etc.). Unfortunately, I live in an area w/ no store front music/instrument shop (we used to have one but it closed several years ago). I’m certain that there’s some bass players somewhere in my community but I’m still working on finding one/some. I’d feel more comfortable w/ my bass setup skills if another experienced bass player could give me a hands-on critique.

My other concern is that the process of adjusting the truss rod seemed different from my experience w/ my guitars (Made in the USA - Les Paul & a Strat). That is, between these two guitars the truss rod adjustments have been very responsive in that it’s easy to see back and forward bows in the relief. Of course, I generally make adjustments and will give them a good 24hrs before moving forward w/ any further adjustments. Also, I took care in loosening the strings before making adjustments.

The Streamer doesn’t seem to have the same responsiveness. After measuring it up (using Warwick’s recommendations) from out of the box it needed some intervention. I was met w/ a very tight and squeaky experience w/ my first adjustment to the truss rod. In this case, I first decided to loosen it for the purpose of taking the rod through its adjustment range. After the initial tight/squeaky adjustment the rest have sounded and have felt normal as I loosened and tightened. I could visibly gauge the forward bow/relief when loosening. However, it didn’t seem that I could get it to a prominent backward bow. Going back to my guitars, it’s easy to see the necks “belly out” if I tighten the rod.

As of now, the relief looks to be appropriate w/ a slight forward bow recognizable between the 7th and 9th frets. To me, it seems to be good w/ no buzzing coming from the upper or bottom most frets. And, after I finished w/ the intonation it has checked out solidly.

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***My problem is that I continue to have an uneasy feeling over the fact that I couldn’t get the neck to a visible backward bow (although I was able to get it approx. straight/level). This feeling is also exasperated by the fact that it’s a B Stock. I’ve read other forum posts and watched videos of people advising on how to gently flex the neck in order to revive the truss rod. I am reserving this tactic for later, i.e. when I overhaul the strings for the first time, since it seems to be OK (staying in tune, action/height good). I’m probably overly obsessing about it….

Thanks in advance for any advice, tips, and/or corrections to my understanding of bass guitar necks and truss rods. This forum has been, by far, the most resourceful compared to the other ones out there. - Cheers!!

…oh, one last question. I will be purchasing my first bass combo amp soon. I’ve narrowed my selection down to two manufacturers. Help me decide…

Which is better - Acoustic (B100 MKII 100W) or TC Electronics (BG250-115 MKII)?[/QUOTE]
 
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Hi buddy,

Setup- this is very personal, you don't need another bassist to confirm it is OK, as far if you feel good.
A few tips:
I set the G side lower, so I have 2.5 3mm on B side and 2mm on G side, measured at 12ve string. take a look at the nut, you want it as low as possible without having buzz on open string. Press the string at 2nd fret, and look at the gap between the string and the 1st fret. You should have just a tiny bit ofspace, just that it doesn't touch the string. Almost invisible, but you feel it when you tap the string against the fret.
Trussrod- set the bow so you have the same kind of buzz even on all strings. Or no buzz at all. I like a small buzz when digging in.
Neck not bowing back. I don't think you should be concerned right now, as far as you could set it right. Even straight is too much anyway. Also since Warwick necks have a steel bar from 12ve to 24th fret, you see the bow changing between 1st and 12ve So don't expect the whole neck to bow. And yes, Warwick necks are pretty stiff, this is good, part of the tight signature Warwick sound.

Combo- I use BC20 from warwick, and I love it! Best practice combo ever. Loud enough even to practice with a drummer (no kidding). Between the two, I have good experience with TC stuff.
 
Good call on your first bass, amazing value for money right there. Basses have a much longer and thicker neck so expect it to be harder to adjust. As long as it adjusts correctly don’t be concerned. I can’t think of a bass where I’ve gone past straight adjustment ever and that was by accident as it was reverse action.

Warwick has a stack of setup videos which are informative and educational and showcase how they setup their custom shop instruments, same process with yours, run through those and report back if you have trouble.
 
I am not sure what you mean by a backward bow, but the neck should have a slight bow toward the string side, with a small gap between the string and the 12th fret when the string is being held down at the 24th fret. If you are trying to get it to bow away from the strings much past flat, well, I would not really expect it to do that. Having it bow away from the strings would make a very high bridge/nut position necessary to avoid fret buzz and I think it would make it quite difficult to play. I hope this helps.
 
Hello mates! I still can’t believe I scored this Custom Shop Streamer LX 4 in Midnight Blue Threadburst High Polish about 2 weeks ago. Masterbuilt in December 2016, it was made to display at the Warwick booth during the Winter NAMM show in January 2017! Such an amazing instrument! It even has its own video made by Warwick! I feel very lucky to be it’s owner. :)



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