Would you post a pic of your Streamer Stage I electronics?

[pico322]

Hallo everybody!

I recently bought a SSI with non original electronics. I now bought the original Mecs, and I am now planning to replace them by myself.

I am collecting all the infos about this, and I would like to have some closeup pictures of original SSI electronics in their place, to see where to put what. Would you help me posting some pics? And if you know where to find "how-to", tools needed or any kind of useful infos for a newbie luthier ( :shock: ) they are all very welcome!

Thank you very much!


Pico

 

[Vinnie]

Here's a pic. Hope this goes well for you.

 

[pico322]

Hey Vinnie, thank you so much! This is exactly what I needed!

I hope not to mess up my bass... wish me good luck!


Pico

 

[maddrakkett]

Don't know if you have this, but here's a link to the SSI wiring diagram:



Just go slow and make sure to use a low-wattage (25 - 30 watts) soldering iron. Too much wattage and you can melt components. Check each thing twice before soldering each wire. It's amazing what you miss if you rush things. :wink:

 

[pico322]

Hallo Maddrakkett! Thanks, the diagram is really helpful, and also the low wattage advice, I was supposed to buy a soldering iron tomorrow and I would have bought any I would found...

I love this international leuthiery team! Thank you all!


Pico

 

[pico322]

Uh, I've just found out I have one more question: what should I do with the copper threads? Where should I solder them exactly? Gee, the electronic thing is like a snake nest!

Thank you!

Pico

 

[Escobon]

Just go slow and make sure to use a low-wattage (25 - 30 watts) soldering iron. Too much wattage and you can melt components. Check each thing twice before soldering each wire. It's amazing what you miss if you rush things. :wink:

+1. Yes, low wattage is the way to go. It's important to use enough heat to flow the solder, but not too much as to melt wire insulation and such.

I recommend to tin the leads and grounding points first. Do this by flowing solder onto the wire tips, braided shields, and on the back plate of the volume/balance stacked pot before attaching the actual wires. This will make the wires/cables easier to attach and will require less heat to solder.

It's possible that your new MEC pickups won't have the redundant ground connection. If they do, the back plate of the stacked pot assembly is a convenient place to attach them. Be sure to connect the bridge ground wire, and make sure the copper foil attached to the control cavity container gets connected to ground as well. This shields the entire control cavity and its cover.

O

 

[pico322]

plate of the stacked pot assembly is a convenient place to attach them. Be sure to connect the bridge ground wire, and make sure the copper foil attached to the control cavity container gets connected to ground as well. This shields the entire control cavity and its cover.

O

And how do I connect the copper foil to ground? Should I use a wire, should I solder it somehow or something? Newbie, newbie... :-(

Thanx Escobon!


Pico

 

[Callum]

plate of the stacked pot assembly is a convenient place to attach them. Be sure to connect the bridge ground wire, and make sure the copper foil attached to the control cavity container gets connected to ground as well. This shields the entire control cavity and its cover.

O

And how do I connect the copper foil to ground? Should I use a wire, should I solder it somehow or something? Newbie, newbie... :-(

Thanx Escobon!


Pico

iirc theres a wire that connects it to the warwick bridge i think to ground it....not sure though will need florin of greg ...or anyon in the know to confirm.

 

[Escobon]

plate of the stacked pot assembly is a convenient place to attach them. Be sure to connect the bridge ground wire, and make sure the copper foil attached to the control cavity container gets connected to ground as well. This shields the entire control cavity and its cover.

O

And how do I connect the copper foil to ground? Should I use a wire, should I solder it somehow or something? Newbie, newbie... :-(

Thanx Escobon!


Pico

In my basses, the copper foil is connected to a ground wire by a screw. The foil is not soldered. The foil only needs to touch the control cavity cover to ground the cover. The cover plate is coated with conductive paint (graphite) so it only needs to touch the foil when it's in place. There's a good chance this connection is already made.

The control cavity casing also connects to ground through the pot shafts. They too contact the graphite paint from inside the cavity.

O

 

[pico322]

plate of the stacked pot assembly is a convenient place to attach them. Be sure to connect the bridge ground wire, and make sure the copper foil attached to the control cavity container gets connected to ground as well. This shields the entire control cavity and its cover.

O

And how do I connect the copper foil to ground? Should I use a wire, should I solder it somehow or something? Newbie, newbie... :-(

Thanx Escobon!


Pico

In my basses, the copper foil is connected to a ground wire by a screw. The foil is not soldered. The foil only needs to touch the control cavity cover to ground the cover. The cover plate is coated with conductive paint (graphite) so it only needs to touch the foil when it's in place. There's a good chance this connection is already made.

The control cavity casing also connects to ground through the pot shafts. They too contact the graphite paint from inside the cavity.

O

Thank you again, Escobon! That's what that copper foil coming from "inside" the bass is for! Now all that mess seems to make sense to me...

Your help is very, very appeciated!


Pico