`
Welcome to the forum.
No one has bothered to mention filing the nut slots
for the thicker strings. I would assume that a '92
has the JAN-I brass nut. If thaz the case, you can
just let the strings ride higher in the existing slots.
That is to say they will ride ON the slots rather than
down IN the slots. It's not ideal but it will work. You
will hafta lower all the screws cuz the strings will no
longer be at the bottom of the slots.
If you can get just an B-string slotted screw from
Wick, [replacement part for a 5-string brass nut]
then you just displace the E-string slotted screw,
move the E-A-D screws over by one space, and
store the G-string slotted screw in a safe place
[tiny plastic bag taped inside the control cavity].
BTW, altho it's already been made clear that
your neck is at no risk here, no one mentioned
that a B-E-A-D set is actually LESS total tension
than an E-A-D-G set. So don't let it flip you out
if after the re-stringing you hafta relax the truss
rod rather than tighten it.
I know it seems weird, but the thicker strings are
the lower tension strings in a bass string set. You
are going to remove a skinny G and add a fat B.
Total tension of all 4 strings will drop by 10% to
15% due to the change over.
Finally, there have been threads here b!tchin and
moanin about how most non-Wick B-strings don't
seat into the Wick stop tail. I've even found it true
with some FW E-strings. Anywayz, you can file the
gap a bit wider, or you can squeeze down the end
of the string with smooth pliers [or small vise or a
ball peen hammer or whatever] to make it fit. The
string doesn't need to be all-around smaller to fit
in the gap, it just needs to be narrower.
`
