Problem with Corvette $$ NT

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boebl

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Hey Guys,

Just played abit with my corvette when i recognized a failure i can't explain to myself.

As you know you got 3 different setups for each PU of the $$.
Everything worked fine the whole time - but today it seems that one config doesn't work at all.
If i blend towards the neck PU (i.e. "disable" bridge PU) and get it in serial position - there's no output at all.

Update: There is output. But it's really really weak.
I think i never did it like this before, (only neck PU in serial) - but i'm pretty sure there was some neck output in the mix the last time.

I got warranty, but my dealer is like 100km far away.
What's your suggestions? Where should i start seeking for the failure?
Haven't looked at the electronics yet - and don't think it would change much, - i'm not that skilled in electronic matters
 
Well,

the easiest thing is to check the electronics cavity for a loose wire. You can do the same by checking the wires of the pickups (unscrew them). I'm not an electronics fan either...................so this is what I would do. Good luck. 8)
 
If you feel like you don't know what to do, I strongly suggest taking your bass to a qualified repair center.
 
found out new stuff:
In the electronic cavity everything is allright.

it also is pretty obvious that its a loose contact - because pushing and shaking the pu makes it work sometimes.

Also i combined (call me Columbo) out of the facts:
- serial mode doesn't work at all
- single coil works
- parallel works
- single coil and parallel sound the same

=> One of the PU "rows", better said, one of those cables is defective.

Now - de-stringing the bass and removing the PU is hell of a work IF there's nothing I can do.
My dad is pretty fit in electronics and soldering stuff (if necessary) - but before i do so, i would want to know if it's even possible.

So my question:
Anybody ever removed his $$ PU's and can tell me how the backside looks?
Is there any way in getting "inside" the PU electronics without destroying them or even somehow damage them significantly? (you know - losing warranty)

Like said - i would have to drive about 100km to give the bass to the dealer i bought it from. And he for sure wouldn't be able to repair it "in a few hours" so i would have to drive two times.
Thats 400km - no matter if by car or by train it's a sum of money i don't really like to pay. More less even because of the fact i own this bass only for about 1 month.

And "repair centers" would be our local music shop. I really think driving 400km would be less expensive than asking him for help. (and less unfriendly)
 
Mate,if the bass is 1 month old & is faulty,send it back to the dealer & get him to pay for shipping,the bass is after all,under warranty.It's the dealers responsibility to honour the warranty,you should'nt have to drive 400 kms to get a brand new bass fixed.
 
thumperton said:
Mate,if the bass is 1 month old & is faulty,send it back to the dealer & get him to pay for shipping,the bass is after all,under warranty.It's the dealers responsibility to honour the warranty,you should'nt have to drive 400 kms to get a brand new bass fixed.
Click to expand...

+1
Don't mess in something that you are not that comfortable with. Especially on something as nice as that bass of yours.
 
Yeah - don't panic ;)


Unscrewed the PU today, just to look at the other side.
There are some soldering points - but they are all absolutly okay.
It must be something deeper inside the electronics.

When i tightned the screws again i increased the distance between strings and pu - and somehow this was also good for the loose contact.
Now it works most the time.

But this is only one little time bonus - will call the dealer as fast as possible and see what he says.
It's sometimes pretty hard to force Munich dealers into good customer-service.
 
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