Light Gauge Strings - DR Long Necks
I have never played long necks, but have played a lot on DR High Beams 40-60-80-100 and 45-65-85-105. I think you should choose whats suits your style of playing and sound preferences best. I would prefer 40-100 since they feel more flexible and smooth. They also have a better snap in the sound. It may be that the 45-105 have a more solid tone, but weak or thin tone has never been an issue on any bass I've had. It may also be that 45-105 feel more stabile and solid if you play with a pick (which I don't). Try both and make a decision afterwards! It may be that you'll have to adjust your setup a little after changing string gauge, but it will just be minor adjustments when changing from 45-105 to 40-100.
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I've never really understood (maybe I've never tried) the tonal differences with DR strings... are the high beams/sunbeams supposed to have more of a treble sound than the lo riders/mm fat beams? This is probably an elementary question, so sorry in advance.
-Y
-Y
I've only played High-beams fra DR and have been happy with both playing comfort and tonal balance on these. Here's how DR String self explains the differences between the models. I doubt the advantages with the most expencive models justifies the higher price. It's better to choose strings at a modest price and replace them as often as you can afford! 
Olav
"HI-BEAMS are the string to choose for brightness, and ease of playing."
"Lo-Rider stainless steel bass strings are round wound and constructed upon a hexagonal core. They provide more depth of tone,
and are a bit stiffer than Hi-Beams."
"Lo-Rider nickel-plated bass strings are based upon hexagonal cores, wound with nickel-plated steel, specifically designed for a
softer feel and a traditional warm nickel sound."
"Sunbeams feature the easily recognizable feel and flexibility of DR round core Construction, with nickel warmth, softness of feel, and increased response to magnetic pickups due to the sensitive magnetic
content (compared to stainless steel) of the nickel plated wrap wire."
Olav
"HI-BEAMS are the string to choose for brightness, and ease of playing."
"Lo-Rider stainless steel bass strings are round wound and constructed upon a hexagonal core. They provide more depth of tone,
and are a bit stiffer than Hi-Beams."
"Lo-Rider nickel-plated bass strings are based upon hexagonal cores, wound with nickel-plated steel, specifically designed for a
softer feel and a traditional warm nickel sound."
"Sunbeams feature the easily recognizable feel and flexibility of DR round core Construction, with nickel warmth, softness of feel, and increased response to magnetic pickups due to the sensitive magnetic
content (compared to stainless steel) of the nickel plated wrap wire."
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Sunbeams are Nickle wrapped around a Steel round core. They have the great "scooped" slap tone but with the low and high mid definition for finger style, with an excellent balence between sparkling highs and deep, clear bass. really, they are amazing strings.
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So I found some DR Long Neck's in light gauge and they are enroute to my house. I hear there are minor adjustments for setup going from 45-105's to 40-100's. What adjustments should I be making? I hope it's not trussrod adjustments - like electricity and car brakes, the truss rod is ne thing I just don't like playing with...
Thanks in advance,
-yos
Thanks in advance,
-yos
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Yos,
After changing the strings, the neck may flatten a bit. If you have new fret buzzes, then you may need to increase the neck relief by loosening the trussrod a little. Because the new strings have a smaller diameter, you might need to adjust the nut and bridge a little.
Go ahead and put the new strings on and see what changes. You might not have to do anything but set the intonation. Your bass will tell you what it needs.
O
After changing the strings, the neck may flatten a bit. If you have new fret buzzes, then you may need to increase the neck relief by loosening the trussrod a little. Because the new strings have a smaller diameter, you might need to adjust the nut and bridge a little.
Go ahead and put the new strings on and see what changes. You might not have to do anything but set the intonation. Your bass will tell you what it needs.
O
Yes, just change strings and see what happens.
Adjusting the thrus rod is very simple. But it is very important to just adjust a little (1/4 - 1/2 turns) each time and give the neck some time to stabilize between every adjustment. I prefer about 1 mm space between each string and the 7'th fret when I press the string down to the fingerboard at 1st and 15th fret.
Adjustment of string heights is first of all a matter of personal taste, try different adjustments and check out what suites you style of playing. I prefer a little low action and do not care about fret noise if I hit the string hard. I also prefer that the string height follows the curve of the fingerboard but at the same time increases for each string when you go from G - D - A - E to H.
Good luck!
Adjusting the thrus rod is very simple. But it is very important to just adjust a little (1/4 - 1/2 turns) each time and give the neck some time to stabilize between every adjustment. I prefer about 1 mm space between each string and the 7'th fret when I press the string down to the fingerboard at 1st and 15th fret.
Adjustment of string heights is first of all a matter of personal taste, try different adjustments and check out what suites you style of playing. I prefer a little low action and do not care about fret noise if I hit the string hard. I also prefer that the string height follows the curve of the fingerboard but at the same time increases for each string when you go from G - D - A - E to H.
Good luck!
