Eb to E

jay

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Hey guys,
I use a pro to set my basses up. I have my $$ set up for Eb/Drop D flat, by a pro. My new band plays in E only (finally). If I want to play my $$ in E do I need to do a whole new set up, or will their just be minor changes you think? SHould I just tune it to E and see how it plays for a few days?...
 
I would tune it to E (standard tuning) and check the intonation and relief, just to be sure everything is good. More than likely, it will change a little bit. Learn to set your Wick up in the process. :) It's a "win-win" situation for you... unless you are loaded with $$$.

:P

Tim
 
personally, i tune form E to Eb and vice versa all the time (i only have 2 basses) ... no intonatuion or anything needed ... although if i was that OC, id probably have the buzzard's neck tightened since id love a higher tension on it, being used to the darklord's 35" scale and all ... but well, im not OC, so i adopt to the bass :)
 
All my 4-string 'Wicks have Hipshot D-Tuners that drop the E to a low D. I really don't have or notice any changes or problems between the two settings. I would agree that you should try tuning it to E and if you feel it needs adjusting, it's not hard to learn to do it on your own. It can be fun too once you get the hang of it. :D
 
How about a bit of a guide to setting basses up from guys who do a good job on their own instruments?
 
maddrakkett said:
All my 4-string 'Wicks have Hipshot D-Tuners that drop the E to a low D. I really don't have or notice any changes or problems between the two settings. I would agree that you should try tuning it to E and if you feel it needs adjusting, it's not hard to learn to do it on your own. It can be fun too once you get the hang of it. :D

I keep forgetting about those things. I need to get two of em.
 
If you were set up for C#/Db it's likely your action is set a bit higher than it would need to be for standard tuning, but it's not going to hurt anything either. I suspect using one tuning is a bit easier on the neck, but adjustments would be minimal. You might just try lowering your JAN if you want the lower action...
 
`

Using the neck tool, go about 1/10 of a turn tighter [clockwise]. No need to mess with the bridge, since the only change is in string tension.

If your living area is currently shifting from dry cool weather to warmer more humid weather, the neck will prolly respond by becoming a bit flatter, so you could put off the neck adjustment til the cooler dryer weather returns.

Here's a link to an illustrated general guide to bass set up:



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I tuned up and the tension and action is crazy high. Do I need a neck adjustment, or lower it at the bridge. The action gets higher towards the bridge...
 
jay said:
I tuned up and the tension and action is crazy high. Do I need a neck adjustment, or lower it at the bridge. The action gets higher towards the bridge...
Not a huge amount you can do about tension, other than changing string brands/gauge. You've gotten used to the lower tension hence the tight feel now!

If the action is way high then you need to give your truss rod a little tweak. You say that your bass has been professionally set up to a lower tuning so basically when you have tuned up to concert pitch the string tension has increased and is pulling your neck forward a bit. by tweaking your truss rod you are exerting pressure on the neck/strings in the opposite direction to the string pull.

I have no idea which way your rod operates and I never give a definitive right or left to ANY Warwick owner as there is always going to be an exception to the rule with regard to which way is tightening and which loosening. You should be able to tell which way is tightening the rod by turning it just 1/8 of a turn or less. The easiest way to tell what it is doing is to tune your bass with a digital tuner then tweak your truss rod just a bit and check your tuning. If the bass has gone flat you have loosened the rod and the strings have bowed the neck a fraction more; if the bass is sharp then the rod has tightened and pulled the neck back a little way (the way that you want). You now know which way your rod operates and you can start to correct the problem. Do not adjust your rod more than about 1/4 of a turn without letting the bass rest for a few hours or preferably overnight, as it 'can' need time to settle.

If you are unsure about this take it to your tech but this time ask if he can talk you through what he is doing. Most techs will be happy to do this (unless they are desperate for business/money) and it is quite satisfying to do it yourself.
 
Thanks, I'll give the neck a tweek tonight and see what it does...
 
jay said:
Thanks, I'll give the neck a tweek tonight and see what it does...

Good man :wink: Just remember that a little goes a long way. Don't panic if nothing happens after you tweak it 1/8 of a turn; just put it to one side and come back a bit later. Warwick necks are pretty robust so if you follow the guideline of a little at a time you should see an improvement 'way' before you do anything drastic :lol:
 
The general rule is "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey"! So if you're looking from the direction you're tweaking - for a Warwick, that'll be down the neck of the bass from the headstock end... if you turn the rod clockwise, it'll tighten the rod, so it should straighten the neck. Turn it anti-clockwise, it''ll loosen, and the neck bow will increase. Or you may just want to listen to Warwickhunt's warnings!
In any case, it's wise to make small adjustments at a time and give the neck time to settle - even overnight. If you feel anything sticking, or meet resistance... STOP!

I had a Fender Mustang Bass... you had to take off the neck to make adjustments... so I just bought different gauge strings instead!
 
saxonbass said:
The general rule is "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey"! So if you're looking from the direction you're tweaking - for a Warwick, that'll be down the neck of the bass from the headstock end... if you turn the rod clockwise, it'll tighten the rod, so it should straighten the neck. Turn it anti-clockwise, it''ll loosen, and the neck bow will increase.

As you say almost always correct BUT there is documented evidence of some Warwick basses working the opposite way :wink: hence my warning about testing first. The counter-intuitive basses that I have personally worked on or have heard directly about, have all been pre 92 basses but it has taught me to 'never' take it for granted that is how a rod will work (even on none-Warwick basses).
 
jay said:
I tuned up and the tension and action is crazy high. Do I need a neck adjustment, or lower it at the bridge. The action gets higher towards the bridge...

Wow, I'm surprised a half-step would make that much of a difference!

What guage of strings do you use?
 
EVOLVEBASS said:
jay said:
I tuned up and the tension and action is crazy high. Do I need a neck adjustment, or lower it at the bridge. The action gets higher towards the bridge...

Wow, I'm surprised a half-step would make that much of a difference!

What guage of strings do you use?

45 - 105. Honestly I don't think it's the best set-up to start with. I had my Streamette set up by someone else for E and it plays like a dream. I guess that's what I'm looking for. Even in Eb my $$ doesn't play as good as my Streamette...
 
jay said:
I tuned up and the tension and action is crazy high. Do I need a neck adjustment, or lower it at the bridge. The action gets higher towards the bridge...
`

Not trying to be funny or insulting, but the action ALWAYS gets higher toward the bridge. You do not want uniform action from end to end. You want the correct amount of relief [very slight backbow] and the correct clearance above the octave fret [varies with style, etc but 2.5 to 3mm is typical, higher for very slappy or other hyperactive styles].

Simply put, never mess with the bridge to compensate changes in relief [neck bow]. Weather and string tension [different strings or tunings] affect only the relief, which is addressed only with the neck rod, not the bridge adjustments.

--- - -- --- - -- --- - ---- - - -- - -- - - ----- - --

That said, for others who may be reading this, for Fender types where you remove the neck to access the rod nut, if the seasonal changes are not too extreme, you can be lazy like me: During a really humid hot summer month, adjust the rod to the barest minimum workable relief, much less than "standard", but not quite truly totally flat. Now raise the saddles til the buzz is gone or tolerable.

In less humid seasons, as the neck relief increases all by itself, you can drop the saddles to keep the action playable. Or you can get rid of this ax forever. I happen to live right on a major river. I don't try for a 12 month solution. The ax in question has its rod adjusted such that I can fudge the action with the saddles, never removing the neck to access the rod, but it's only a 10 month solution. It's just not my dead-of-winter ax ..... unless I wanna tolerate too-high action, just to show up with a white bass at Xmas time :-) Actually, Xmas is usually OK. The true dryest coldest part of winter here is around february and early march.

My dead-of-winter basses are wood-free all-composite basses, so this solution is OK for me. If your climate is less variable than mine, you can get a lazy-dude 12 month solution via the same procedure. Or you can neatly rout out a more realistic rod access. But as you all know, basses are manufactured by vengeful gods who see everything and will set seven plagues upon you if you do any unreversable mods, even with professional level workmanship to correct all the stoopid design flaws that the gods put in there to make you suffer for your art so you will get 72 virgins in the afterlife. Hopefully, they did not simply remain virgins just cuz they are gross and repulsive ......... it would also be cool if they can sing and play. You don't need a cook in the afterlife. BBQ ribs and chicken grow on trees all year round [so don't expect your virgins to have 22" waistlines].

Hope this helps. YMMV, a lot !!!

`
 
golem said:
jay said:
I tuned up and the tension and action is crazy high. Do I need a neck adjustment, or lower it at the bridge. The action gets higher towards the bridge...
`

Not trying to be funny or insulting, but the action ALWAYS gets higher toward the bridge. You do not want uniform action from end to end. You want the correct amount of relief [very slight backbow] and the correct clearance above the octave fret [varies with style, etc but 2.5 to 3mm is typical, higher for very slappy or other hyperactive styles].



`

Thanks for the info. I know the action gets higher towards the bridge, but it is VERY high. I'll take a measurement before I start messing with it. Thanks for the info...
 
golem said:
But as you all know, basses are manufactured by vengeful gods who see everything and will set seven plagues upon you if you do any unreversable mods, even with professional level workmanship to correct all the stoopid design flaws that the gods put in there to make you suffer for your art so you will get 72 virgins in the afterlife. Hopefully, they did not simply remain virgins just cuz they are gross and repulsive ......... it would also be cool if they can sing and play. You don't need a cook in the afterlife. BBQ ribs and chicken grow on trees all year round [so don't expect your virgins to have 22" waistlines].

:shock:

Thanks for that, I think. I am sure to have the mental image of 72 virgins with BBQ sauce dripping from their chins (and easily exceeding 22" waistlines) for the forseeable future...

:lol:
 
golem said:
jay said:
I tuned up and the tension and action is crazy high. Do I need a neck adjustment, or lower it at the bridge. The action gets higher towards the bridge...
`

You want the correct amount of relief [very slight backbow] and the correct clearance above the octave fret [varies with style, etc but 2.5 to 3mm is typical, higher for very slappy or other hyperactive styles].



`

Have a stupid question. Is the measurement taken from the fretboard or the fret itself...

I am 3.25 from the fret itself, and 3.75 from the fretboard, in E tuning. It looks like the neck may be slightly back bowed. Does this make sense?...
 
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