Action on a 5 string

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Hi all
Just going through a set up on a bass and having an issue with the action.

On a 5string I don't seem to able to get the action very low. I've adjusted the bridge and saddle as low as they can go and still have a gap between the low B string and the neck?
In the past any Warwicks ive setup have always allowed the strings to rest on the fretboard when adjusted like this. The neck has some relief in it but I don't think an excessive amount. I don't think its warped but then again I've never had a warped neck before.

I'm hoping there isn't a problem with the neck.

All advice appreciated.
 
I think you should adjust the truss rod.

Also a warped neck means its twisted, what you're referring to is a bowed neck.
 
Thanks Gnermo. I hope it isn't warped or bowed!
The truss is very stiff to turn.
 
Tread with care then. If not certain about what you're doing do get someone involved who does.
In the case of truss rods you want to be rather safe then sorry.

Some necks have a natural bow that is hard for the truss rod to compensate. When you need to apply strength to twist it you need to be VERY careful! I helped my truss rod by pushing the neck back with one hand while twisting the rod with an original warwick truss rod tool in my other hand. Someone else holding the bass body in position. But once again, be careful not to break the rod.
 
Any idea how to hold the neck down and tighten the truss rod safely with just one person in play?
 
on top of staircase, one knee on bass body, one hand on neck near the nut, stretch other arm to turn truss rod.
Damn... that's like BASS YOGA, dude!
 
I think I may have to look for a better solution. I don't have a chair like that at home.

 
`


Any idea how to hold the neck down and tighten
the truss rod safely with just one person in play?

Sit down, knees apart, and feed the headstock
under your left leg so the nut is under that leg.
The approximate center of the neck lays across
your right leg. Insert the neck tool and press
down on the body, thus relieving some of the
loading of the truss rod. This allows adjusting
the neck with reduced torque.

Note that the nut is under your left leg, NOT
the headstock itself. This avoids stressing the
headstock joint, putting the load on the neck
itself. Also, use a penetrating lube on the rod
adjusting nut. Reducing friction allows you to
be more sensitive to feeling where the end of
the adjusting range occurs.

`
 
Any idea how to hold the neck down and tighten the truss rod safely with just one person in play?

I put my bass standing upright, between the ankles and knees. Bass is facing my right leg, so with the left hand I pull the neck backwards and I turn the key with my right hand.
 
Are these suggestions done with the strings tuned to pitch or loosened?
 
`



Are these suggestions done with the strings tuned
to pitch or loosened?

I feel that the tension reduction from the 'gymnastics/yoga'
is enuf so that I do not need to slacken the tuning UNLESS
the truss rod adjuster has excessive friction, in which case
I want everything possible in my favor: slack strings, lube
the adjuster really well, and do the 'yoga'.
 
Still building myself upto doing this! :confused:

I'm all revved up about doing it then back out as I don't want to destroy the neck.

It's very playable as it is but it isn't 'right'.
Am I correct to think I need to make the neck flatter? As in turn the truss clockwise (according to the manual)
 
I'd rather learn to sort out the problems tho BoneZ

Ok, I've been trying to get lube to the rod. The rod is very tight. I've been able to turn it with the warwick tool but it does make frightening noises! Very creaky!!

I've left it over night to settle and it all ok. Today I've given it another tweak (creak creak).

I am right in thinking that with the bridge fully lowered the strings should easily rest on the fret board right?
All my other Warwicks do this. Is a set neck any different?
 
Come on now don't be shy.

I know someones looking ;)
 
Well it seems regardless what is done with the truss rod the action is still higher than I would like.

In the Warwick setup vids its shows the strings resting on the fretboard when the bridge is wound all the way down. When I attempt this there is still a gap between the strings and the frets. What's going on ??
 
There should be a gap between the strings and the frets. ;)
 
Not according to this
[video=youtube_share;-NEXH61OCJY]https://youtu.be/-NEXH61OCJY[/video]
 
You do this to set the strings to follow the neck's radius. Have you lowered the saddles?
Anyway, even if it doesn't work like that, just measure the gap with let's say a 1,5mm allen key, and make the spacing equal. Continue the setup from there.
 
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