Thomas said:
... decided to nix the swamp ash back. The
more bubinga, the better. I'm keeping the
maple cap for sure though... just need to
decide between quilted and flamed maple!
`
Does the Wick CS dictate the thicknesses of
various layering configs ? I have a non-Wick
CS with a mainly mahogany body and maple
both top and rear. The maple is thick enuf to
not be just a veneer, but there's still plenty
of 'hog left for the main substance. This bass
definitely sounds different than the plain, all
'hog body non-CS version, and the maple is
the only difference.
If you can get the maple top at about 1/8" or
3/16" and the rear cap at 1/8", you will still
have plenty of bubinga inside, the emerald
will look as bright on the back as the top side
and the tone will be a bit brighter by having
the maple on both sides.
I personally do not play a tone that most of
you would call "bright", but I learned to value
a brighter "flat EQ" tone to reduce noise. If a
bass sounds dark but mellow [my tone] with
the EQ flat, then I don't get to cut the treble
or upper mids. But I found a benefit of treble
cutting is the accompanying noise reduction.
I even learned to buy a bit brighter strings
than I used to.
Obviously, I don't wanna use up ALL my EQ
range just to hit "my tone", but some cutting
of treble or upper mids is worth it noise-wise.
This is especially true of single coil PUs and
splittable humbuckers.
Anywayz, if you are gonna put a thick maple
top on the bubinga body, consider dividing
that amount of maple into top and rear caps.
` 
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