Warwick Pro Tube IX - Faulty? broken? overheated?

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Stompfrog

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Hi,

A friend of mine asked me to post this on his behalf, does anyone have any suggestionsas to what could be wrong? Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Thanks

We have a Warwick Pro Tube IX and it has been fully functioning for over a year until last night when we plugged it in we heard a strange pop noise and form that point onwards when powering up the unit, the mute function remains lit and the fan continously spins.... almost like it is on a cycle of the start up process. Because the mute button remains lit, it is no longer possible to produce any sound from the amplifier even though the front panel and all other switching options seem to be functioning properly. Can anyone please help, all speakon connections to cab were correct so I can't think of what could have gone wrong.
Click to expand...
 
Hello,

1. Make sure that loudspeakers capable of sustaining the load of a bass signal are connected to the SPEAKER OUT
sockets. The speaker cables should meet a cross-section of at least 2 x 1.5 mm.

2. Check that the mains supply has been plugged in and that all external (effects) units possibly used are correctly con-
nected and operational.

3. Set the MASTER control to zero.

4. Plug your bass guitar into the amplifier's INPUT with a shielded line-cable.

5. Press the POWER switch to turn the device on.
6. Switch MUTE off and the red LED will extinguish. (Should the CH. SELECT switch be set to channel 1, it will take a
few seconds before a signal can be processed, as the tubes must be heated first.)

7. Turn all volume controls of your bass guitar on to their maximum.
8. Adjust the GAIN control until the (loudly) played bass signal illuminates the OK LED.

9. Set both OUTPUT controls to their positions 8.

10. Set the MASTER control to the volume you wish to play at.

11. Adjust the controls and switches of both channels according to your sound conceptions. If it appears necessary, reduce OUTPUT again with the appropriate controls. The OL LED might actually flash only occasionally, but it should not remain permanently lit.

12. Balance the levels from one channel to another with the OUTPUT controls.
 
My friend is aware of how to operate the amp but it is not working as normal. The mute switch will not unmute, they cannot get any sound out of it?

Is it broken?
 
Stompfrog said:
My friend is aware of how to operate the amp but it is not working as normal. The mute switch will not unmute, they cannot get any sound out of it?

Is it broken?
Click to expand...

yeah, I think Ollie may have misread that? :?:
 
Stompfrog said:
My friend is aware of how to operate the amp but it is not working as normal. The mute switch will not unmute, they cannot get any sound out of it?

Is it broken?
Click to expand...

Oh, I'm sorry, I think I misread your post. By reading it again, it sounds like it could be a short in the mute switch itself. Flipping a switch on and off after a while might cause the solder points to wear out and join together. If two of these solder points are touching each other it might cause the switch to stay on indefinitely. I recommend not trying to fix yourself (or your friend) unless you have a good understanding of Audiotronics. These power amplifiers can still hold a lot of energy in the caps even when unplugged and they should be handled by professionals. I suggest taking your amplifier to a qualified tech to be checked out.

Sorry for the misunderstanding and hope that this answer is closer to what you were asking.
 
You are welcome. If you need any more information, please let us know.
 
My ProTube just needed a resolder when my tube channel stopped putting out any signal. Hopefully it's something simple like that. Best of luck.
 
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