Nut misery

M

Masterman

Joined
Dec 24, 2011
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Changed strings last night and decided to lemon oil my fretboard so I removed all the strings and my nut flew off. What's worse is one of the side guides on the base plate had apparently snapped off- this is a late '99 Fortress Masterman 5 with the upgraded(?) just a nut which followed the brass individual string adjuster version. I thought these nuts were graphite or carbon fibre but I see some internet suggestions that they're plastic. Ugh! Not what I expected at all from my beloved Team Warwick. Whilst the bass still functions, it looks like a replacement is required. I see I have a choice of just a nut III in brass or Tedur which looks suspiciously like plastic (Ugh!). Which version would my bass brothers and sisters choose?!
 
Sounds like you have a JANII. Those break quite often and easily. I had one on my P-Nut, a not only did both side guides break, the bass side of the bass piece broke off (the part that is glued down). However, it still worked 100% and never gave me any issues. I only replaced with a JANIII brass to prevent potential future issues, and aesthetics.

As for which to purchase, both are fine replacements. The JANIII is much stronger and less prone to breaking than the II. You won't have the same issues with the III. Brass looks better to my eyes, but to each their own. Sound gains is debatable. Really, it's whichever you prefer and can afford.
 
Tedur is okay, the JAN3 has a far better design then the JAN2 that is on your bass. A lot of JAN2 suffer from this problem in fact I think it is what caused the JAN3 in the first place. The brass nuts are way way way overpriced so in my case I'd settle for Tedur.
 
And of course by 'most' JanIIs breaking you mean ALL. Had a feeling I had one of the last intact IIs on my 06 LX, till the guy doing my setup snapped it off this year. :( but they work fine broken.
in terms of replacement The IIIs are a great robust design. Don't know why the sneering at plastics, seeing as 'carbon fibre' nuts are essentially plastics. the 'Tedur' material is IIRC some sort of composite, but then again so is 'carbon fiber' which is a catch all term for all sorts of carbon fibres, weaves, nanotubes or lattices in a resin matrix. Ie plastic with some sort of carbon in it.
The brass ones a very expensive, but nice. I'd say if you have coin go brass, if not go the tedur one. Or you can forgo the adjustability and get a bone, carbon, tusq or brass nut cut by a luthier. although getting a brass nut cut would not be much cheaper than getting a JANIII in brass. as custom shaping brass is a massive pain in the ass.
 
Why is no one suggesting a JAN 1 ?
 

Attachments

  • %u00252FArtikelbilder%u00252FWarwick_Part%u00252FSP_W_30216%u00252FSP_W_30216_1.png
    %u00252FArtikelbilder%u00252FWarwick_Part%u00252FSP_W_30216%u00252FSP_W_30216_1.png
    457 bytes · Views: 370
I've had JAN-I rattle. I was able to seat give the strings a few more windings to increase the angle between the nut and tuner. That fixed my problem. I like that each string is adjustable with a JAN-I.
 
JAN2 and JAN3 aren't the same size as a JAN1.
The trussrod cover plate will look silly sitting 2mm from the nut.
 
I'd go for the easiest solution, after all it is just a nut.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys- much appreciated. Can always count on real advice from real players. Still shocked it broke but at least I know I'm not alone- as for brass or tedur, I'll flip a coin!! :lol:
 
Okayyyyy- Warwick Brothers, stupid questions time I'm afraid. 1) Why is there a 45mm and a 47mm nut for a 5 string bass. My Fortress Masterman appears to require a 45mm version (2mm doesn't seem to equate to wide string spacing so what's that all about??) 2) for a right handed bass I'll need a Right set version right? 3) I've noticed a comment about JAN3 being slightly taller than JAN1 and 2 and the commenter stated he had to file the slots down. (Whaaaat?).

Assuming I do want to blow the extra dosh on the brass JAN3, I really don't want to have the wrong size/back to front/have to start filing the slots!

Your words of wisdom will again be very much appreciated, so thank you.
 
1) because there are 45 and 47 mm nut widths
2) come on buddy
3) sillyness
 
it seems you had a jan2 so jan3 is a direct replacement.

45 mm
 
Masterman said:
Okayyyyy- Warwick Brothers, stupid questions time I'm afraid. 1) Why is there a 45mm and a 47mm nut for a 5 string bass. My Fortress Masterman appears to require a 45mm version (2mm doesn't seem to equate to wide string spacing so what's that all about??) 2) for a right handed bass I'll need a Right set version right? 3) I've noticed a comment about JAN3 being slightly taller than JAN1 and 2 and the commenter stated he had to file the slots down. (Whaaaat?).

Assuming I do want to blow the extra dosh on the brass JAN3, I really don't want to have the wrong size/back to front/have to start filing the slots!

Your words of wisdom will again be very much appreciated, so thank you.
Click to expand...

1) 45 and 47 are your nut area width.
2) Really?
3) JAN 1 thinner in terms of height. JAN 2 and 3 are pretty much the same as its an easier replacement.
I replaced a JAN 1 with a 3 on 2 of my basses and I had to either fill down the truss rod cover down or buy a new one.
 
Thank you- I now know the 47 mm variant is for wide string spacing. I had queried a right set nut for a right handed bass which seemed a daft question but, Thomann sell the Warwick JAN3 cheaper than Warwick but do not seem to specify left or right- so I wanted advice before spending money and ending up with the wrong one and you can't always tell from or trust photographs on websites!!

Thanks again for your help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top