Need help breathing life into this SSI!

schlobodan said:
Well it is a maple 92 streamer? If so it is satin finish (called natural oil by warwick which it is not actually).
The different color in comparison to the neck is die to the fact that th e maple used for bodies is very different
From the one used for necks, usually much softer etc.
Scotch brite will remove parts of the finish so this is defentily NOT adviseable if you don't want to refinish anyway.
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Well, I'm assuming that's what the 92 is in the serial number here :
k6nti.jpg


So you're sure that this bass has a satin finish? When I tried the water-absorption test, the water seems to soak into the finish little by little rather than repelling the water.
I want to restore the bass, not refinish it necessarily. I'd like to return it to factory quality as close as possible.

P.S. What is Scotch brite, by the way?
 
Greg said:
The natural oil finish is a wax finish. Melt wax & you get oil.Simple really.

The easiest way to spruce up the finish is to sand it back with a Scothbrite pad (kitchen scouring pad for pots & pans) soaked in lemon oil,available from any music shop, then wax & buff.Scotchbrite is perfectly safe to use on this finish. I've done it several times & have seen others do the same with great results. It cleans as well as smooths out any minor blemishes.
The factory "oil finish" is simply a coat of melted Warwick wax, buffed to shine, & nothing more.
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Greg,
That's really great to hear! I'd very much like to undertake this project (tomorrow would be a great day to start!).
I was wondering if there was any way you could do me a HUGE favor and list steps to this process?
I've never used Scotchbrite before..actually, I've never done anything this drastic to a bass before.
If you could give me some sort of step-by-step, that would be awesome!
Feel free to PM me if you'd rather send it in a message.
Thanks for the information!
 
If it is "drinking" the water, then it is oil finish. If you are still in doubt, try to scratch it somewhere in the back, let's say remove a tuner, and scratch below the tuner. I guess you will see there if it is a solid finish or just wax.

Scotch brite is this:
scotchbrite1.jpg


Do you want to be a quick TLC project, or do you have enough time, like ... 2 weeks to make your bass nice? If yes, I did once or twice a refinish with tru oil, and the results were really nice.
PLease check this topic :-)
 
Florin said:
If it is "drinking" the water, then it is oil finish. If you are still in doubt, try to scratch it somewhere in the back, let's say remove a tuner, and scratch below the tuner. I guess you will see there if it is a solid finish or just wax.

Scotch brite is this:
scotchbrite1.jpg


Do you want to be a quick TLC project, or do you have enough time, like ... 2 weeks to make your bass nice? If yes, I did once or twice a refinish with tru oil, and the results were really nice.
PLease check this topic :-)
Click to expand...

Wow, that's awesome!
I can do that--I'd say with the right scheduling, I can pull of the oiling and re-oiling much like you did.
I have a few questions, though.
1. How would I go about this process with the neck that I have (since it's a neck-through bass)?
2. How do you know how deep to go with the steel wool? Also, I saw that you used #000 and #0000--why is that? Did you have to cover the fretboard at all to avoid rubbing the frets?
3. What made you decide to oil it two times? (First one you removed the finish, then oiled, then you let it sit for 2 days, then you did the same thing again, then sat for two days, then rubbed off oil [to prevent high-gloss look], then waxed, then rubbed with jeans)
4. After you've oiled the first time and are about to rub in order to oil the second time, how do you how much of the new oil to rub off with the #0000 steel wool?

I hope all this made sense. I know it's a lot of questions, but I'm really scared to mess anything up with this bass.
Thanks!
 
I agree with da Lady and Herbie ...I'd leave it as it is now ... 8:
 
CarlosRoberto5 said:
Wow, that's awesome!
I can do that--I'd say with the right scheduling, I can pull of the oiling and re-oiling much like you did.
I have a few questions, though.
1. How would I go about this process with the neck that I have (since it's a neck-through bass)?
2. How do you know how deep to go with the steel wool? Also, I saw that you used #000 and #0000--why is that? Did you have to cover the fretboard at all to avoid rubbing the frets?
3. What made you decide to oil it two times? (First one you removed the finish, then oiled, then you let it sit for 2 days, then you did the same thing again, then sat for two days, then rubbed off oil [to prevent high-gloss look], then waxed, then rubbed with jeans)
4. After you've oiled the first time and are about to rub in order to oil the second time, how do you how much of the new oil to rub off with the #0000 steel wool?

I hope all this made sense. I know it's a lot of questions, but I'm really scared to mess anything up with this bass.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
1- First time I did it with a neck through bass, and it was the same...
2- I'd use 0000 steelwool only. I guess before oiling sandbaper works better, because it is plane, it levels imperfections while steelwool goes with them. How deep? well I am not a professional and I cannot give real good advices. I think using common sense is great for doing this :-) I didn't covered the frettboard.
3- I oiled it more than 2 times IIRC. Beacuse you cannot "build" too much first time, so after it is cured, and I wanted a thicker finish.
4- not much, this step is to be sure everything is smooth.

You cannot do anything wrong, I mean... you always can sand everything down, and start again...

The wood will be darker than it is now...
 
Florin said:
1- First time I did it with a neck through bass, and it was the same...
2- I'd use 0000 steelwool only. I guess before oiling sandbaper works better, because it is plane, it levels imperfections while steelwool goes with them. How deep? well I am not a professional and I cannot give real good advices. I think using common sense is great for doing this :-) I didn't covered the frettboard.
3- I oiled it more than 2 times IIRC. Beacuse you cannot "build" too much first time, so after it is cured, and I wanted a thicker finish.
4- not much, this step is to be sure everything is smooth.

You cannot do anything wrong, I mean... you always can sand everything down, and start again...

The wood will be darker than it is now...
Click to expand...


Okay, thanks a lot!
That's very good to hear. Ill probably start on this project tomorrow, then.
Is there a particular sandpaper you recommend? How about oil?
How many times would you recommend I oil the body?
Thanks again, this has been very enlightening.
Ill post pictures of the stripped instrument tomorrow!
 
I worked with birchwood casey - Tru Oil.
How many layers... I have no Idea, I guess when you are happy with the results you stop :-)
 
Alright, thanks Florin.
I just came across your older post from when you refinished the NTThumb.
If I can get this bass to look as good as that, I will know that I did a good job
Wish me luck! Tomorrow I will start with the sanding process.
 
Good luck Carlos :-)
Most important advice- keep the steelwool dust away from the electronics and pickups!
 
Excellent advice by Flo regarding the steel wool. Make certain to completely seal the pickups & electronics to stop any steel wool fibres from entering & short out these parts. The pickups are magnetic & will attract anything remotely magnetic. If they get into the elctronics compartment & short out your preamp it'll fry it.
The way I do it is as follows.
remove all strings, tuners, bridge,tail piece & control knobs.
Spray entire bass with some lemon oil & wipe with either a clean cloth, ot paper towel until all the dirt is removed. Usually this takes 2 or 3 goes.
Take the Scothbrite pad, lightly spray it on the green abrasive side with some lemon oil & sand the entire bass. Pay extra attention to any small dents, knicks or other minor blemishes.
Wipe again with a dry cloth.
Apply Warwick wax, wait a few minutes, then buff it all off.
Repeat this 2 or 3 times then follow up with further waxing about once a week for a month, then once a month for eternity.
If you gig regularly, & the bass gets lots of sweat, simply clean the bass after use with a cloth lightly sprayed with lemon oil, then wax. If you sweat profusely during gigs, you can apply some wax around the rim or edge of the cavity cover to prevent sweat entering the electronics & shorting them out. The pickups are sealed so they'll be fine.
Flo's linked thread on restoration is first class. Follow it & you cant go wrong.
Cheers matey.
 
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