Issues with my Dolphin pro I

T

thumba

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Hi all,
I recently bought a used Dolphin pro I made in '03.
It sounds like a dream. I'm fully satisfied with its sound and appearance.
But it has some problems.
First, the output jack cuts in and out. I should replace it with a Switchcraft stereo jack soon.
The second problem is that the truss rod hole seems to be stripped.
I turned it about 1/16 to left and right VERY gently and it seemed to barely work.
Now the neck relief is OK but when I do need to adjust the neck, it will be tough.
Is it possible to restore the truss rod hole?
And do I have to check(turn) the truss rod regularly to keep it working?

Why did this happen to my Dolphin:(
Thanks in advance.
 
I only touched my Dolphin trussrod once when I just bought it. No need to adjust it ever once its sitting right. Don't worry.
 
The output jack is a weak spot on all my warwicks. Replacing it is a good idea if it is loose and cuts in and out. I wind up doing it every few years. If it is simply oxidized, I spray Some De-Oxid electrical cleaner in there and it stops the crackling.
 
Skunk Ape said:
The output jack is a weak spot on all my warwicks. Replacing it is a good idea if it is loose and cuts in and out. I wind up doing it every few years. If it is simply oxidized, I spray Some De-Oxid electrical cleaner in there and it stops the crackling.
Click to expand...

The jacks are a weak point for ALL guitars, not just wicks, they are pretty much considered a consumable part of an electric guitar, dont sweat that part of it, they cost bugger all and are easy to change.
 
Or you can purchase them through the Warwick webshop. Delivery is very swift.
 
Thank you all for the replies.
Now I feel more comfortable.

I called the previous owner and talked about the problems.
He also got it second handed.
He told me that he'd never had to use the truss rod and had no problems with the output jack.
He asked me what cable I was using.
So I tried another cable.. and it worked fine:!:
The connectors of the two cables were slightly different. I'll post a pic later for comparison.
I decided not to replace the output jack right now.
Actually I had the same experience with the Thumb BO which I used to use.
Maybe.. the stock output jack is not fully compatible with SOME connectors.

For the truss nut, I'm just gonna stop messing with it like DiMarco said.:)

Thanks again.
My Dolphin keeps reminding me the fun of bass playing. Yeah lml
 
jacks.JPG
The left one is good and the right one is crackling.
I didn't know the lengths could vary.
Just for reference.
 
I have one last suspicious thing with my Dolphin. (I am the thumba)
The thickness of its fingerboard is assymetrical.
Its thicker at the 1st string side and thiner at the 4th string side as the pics below.
Its thickness is 5mm on the 1st string side and 4mm on the 4th string side.
As you can see in the last picture, the side dot markers are almost at the bottom of the fingerboard not in the middle.
Is this normal on other Warwicks?
I'm afraid the fingerboard has been off, sanded, and glued back for some reason.:(
 

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Last edited by a moderator:
Augie said:
The jacks are a weak point for ALL guitars, not just wicks, they are pretty much considered a consumable part of an electric guitar, dont sweat that part of it, they cost bugger all and are easy to change.
Click to expand...

I wasn't trying to single out the Warwick brand to bag on, just for the record... ;)
 
No worries Les, i didn't think so but i jst wanted to ensure no one mistook this as a quality issue with wicks instead of as an issue with standard jacks.

And looking at those picks from you basspark, what you have there is a nut shim, not a sanded down fretboard. There is an insert between the JAN and the FB, looks like ebony to me. Dont know if this is factory but what has happened is that it was necessary to raise the treble side significantly more than the bass side of the nut, more than the JAN could accomodate. So someone has cut and inserted a small wedge between the FB and the JAN. The original level of the FB is what is under the E, the extra height under the G is provided by the shim. This is what you do when you need more height on your nut, it looks pretty well done and if your setup is good then there is no problem here.
 
Augie said:
No worries Les, i didn't think so but i jst wanted to ensure no one mistook this as a quality issue with wicks instead of as an issue with standard jacks.

And looking at those picks from you basspark, what you have there is a nut shim, not a sanded down fretboard. There is an insert between the JAN and the FB, looks like ebony to me. Dont know if this is factory but what has happened is that it was necessary to raise the treble side significantly more than the bass side of the nut, more than the JAN could accomodate. So someone has cut and inserted a small wedge between the FB and the JAN. The original level of the FB is what is under the E, the extra height under the G is provided by the shim. This is what you do when you need more height on your nut, it looks pretty well done and if your setup is good then there is no problem here.
Click to expand...

Thanks Augie. I'm gonna live with that. No more sweating. ㅎㅎ
 
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