Intonation

Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Having a hell of a time setting up my Warwick Rockbass. I have the relife and action all good but dialing in the intonation on the e string is killing me . I have got the a , d , g all perfect and the e is being persnickitty. I have been toying with the idea if removing the spring on the adjuster screw to allow some more room for lengthning the string . Has anyone done this yet ?
 
Removing it shouldn't pose any problems tbh. I haven't done it on mine, but I reckon it won't do any damage to your bass as I think it's there only to help smooth out the movement of the saddle for more accurate intonation. Is your E string really that way off? You're intonating with fresh new strings I hope?
 
Truely the intonation is not that far out , just being picky is all. I have been waiting to change the strings until I knew if anyone had tried removing the springs. I have been perfecting the set up for many weeks now .I am ready to change strings and that intonation on teh E has been the only thing I cant dial in .It has been a very Humid summer I expect that has been affecting my Bass set up alot, its needed alot of atention this year? Its finally stabalising now and I am happy with the playability.Thanks for your input
 
Did you say you're about to change strings?

If so, wait until you change them before you do the intonation. You should check the intonation whenever changing strings, even if they are the same type.

;)

Be sure to check that you press down a little on the bridge saddle for each string to ensure the string has a nice clean witness point over the bridge. This can make a difference to intonation.

Also, if you find you need to remove the spring (I have never had to do this after owning eleven Rockbasses before) it should not present a problem. What strings are you using?
 
What method are you using? Comparing 12th fret with harmonic?
 
Not Using that method have not been to finicky with the intonation , was only asking before I change up the strings , I have been using D Addario 105-45 been pretty durable so far. I have tried several including the Warwicks and Elixir, was not happy with either the D Addarios meet my needs at a reasonable price. Can ya explain the 12 th harmonic technique I have been using open, 12 for set up.I have noticed that bridge height has some affect on the Intonation as well. I have been enjoying the set up work but It can be a little trying and the journey is allowing me to become more intimate with my instrument. The bass is really becoming minbe now twisitng all its bolts and screws as well as giving it some character with playing ...wanna love this one to back up and wait for the real Streamer ...AHH dreams !!!
 
Personally, I don't use that method, I don't think it makes for an even intonation.

The method I use is this.

First of all, make sure that you have set the truss rod and string height first. Intonation is always the last step in the setup, since truss and string height changes intonation.

Then, compare the fretted note on fret 5 with the fretted note on fret 17 on the same string. Try to get them as close as possible. Intonation is (with a few exceptions) always a compromise, but this is the method I find works the best.

Good luck!
 
The 12/12 method is simply comparing the 12th fret harmonic to the the fretted note, and making them as close as possible.

However, in my opinion that method is inaccurate in many ways, since a harmonic is not a fretted note!
 
...
First of all, make sure that you have set the truss rod and string height first. Intonation is always the last step in the setup, since truss and string height changes intonation....
+1 to that, and to Luke's suggestion that you sort the intonation out after changing the strings.

But I have heard of people removing the spring from the bridge in order to get more room for intonation adjustment, and it works fine, so don't be afraid to do it if you need to.
 
I can't stress enough what Luke (Eberbachl) said. Put fresh strings on first! I'd be willing to bet that most of your intonation problem is due to old strings. Aside from that, make sure you have your neck relief, nut height, and action set how you want it before doing intonation. As Samuel said, intonation is last.
 
I compare the open string to 12th fret (using a tuning stompbox) when fixing the intonation rather then use harmonics. So far this has always worked good enough for me.
 
I compare the open string to 12th fret (using a tuning stompbox) when fixing the intonation rather then use harmonics. So far this has always worked good enough for me.

I try to get all three as close to each other as possible.
 
I use all methods above to be honest. I start with the open string then fretted at the 12. Then I compare with the harmonic, and then the 5th and 17th fret. Seems to get it pretty close to not worry about it.
 
If so, wait until you change them before you do the intonation.

;)

Be sure to check that you press down a little on the bridge saddle for each string to ensure the string has a nice clean witness point over the bridge. This can make a difference to intonation.
Great advices. I doubt you will need to remove the spring anymore if you listen to Luke
First of all, make sure that you have set the truss rod and string height first. Intonation is always the last step in the setup, since truss and string height changes intonation.

Then, compare the fretted note on fret 5 with the fretted note on fret 17 on the same string. Try to get them as close as possible. Intonation is (with a few exceptions) always a compromise, but this is the method I find works the best.

Good luck!

Interesting approach, I will try it.

I set woth open string and fretted 12. Sometimes some strings cannot be setted right, so I am always checking the frets I am actually using - 1- 7 position is the most important place. Sometimes for B or E string, I can set only that part well, and the octave is off.
 
Back
Top