GHS Boomers : No taper code E or B. I love these strings! Tail piece mod / file ?

lexefx

lexefx

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I got these to fir my P nut2, But My SS2's tail piece lots are too narrow. Has anyone filed the bottom of these wider to accept non taper core?
 
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Yup. Common practice.

Before you file, you can try squeezing the string end
to an oval to see if thaz all thaz needed. Often is all.

And if you still hafta file anywho, don't bother trying
to "unsqueeze" the string. An oval shape will require
less filing ... and you avoid reshaping the string one
more time, which would have been just unnecessary
extra stress on the metal. Metals are very agreeable
to being bent, but not to being bent back again.
 
Thanks Golem,

I began this process with some vise grips. Hopefully I can avoid the file work. Thanks mucho!
I
 
Have you tried just shoving the string in there? What I usually do is fit the ball end in the socket (i.e. the string pointing in the other direction, away from the nut), pull the string so it's perpendicular to the bridge, and shove the end of the string into the tailpiece with pliers or something.

If I can get a .135 D'Addario tapewound string with a silk overwrap into a tailpiece, you should be able to as well.

Rotosound nailed it - their silk wraps are rather narrow at the ball end, so I never have a problem with thick strings. Heck, my Buzzard is rocking a .140. They "taper core" their .140 string for about 5mm, so it clears the tailpiece, but the entire thickness string sits over the saddle like normal.
 
P-Nut told me he filed the tailpieces on his Streamers for Boomers.

There is an updated tailpiece that allows clearance of non-tapered strings. You could buy one of those. They're not expensive.
 
I used the oval technique. It's a .145 low B. I think I'll remove the tail piece and file it. I tried to jam it in, without luck. My E was also an issue. I play the heaviest gauge Boomers they make.

Is the tail piece plated? I was concerned about starting a peel if so.
 
My Vampyre is a bit of a relic (previous owner must have toured worldwide with it) and it has a filed bridge bit, looks pretty gnarly.

Since it's the P-Nut, why not just order a tailpiece? File it for now.

But a .145... will that even fit the nut and saddle? My 140 was scary.
 
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lexefx said:
Dremel + mini cutting wheel = perfect!
Click to expand...

If you mean that thin blue steel circular saw-tooth
blade, thaz perfick BUT DO WEAR GOGGLES and
maybe also work gloves. The blade's connection to
the high speed spinning shaft is somewhat fragile
due to the thinness of the [flexible] blade.
 
Very good call on gogles. I grabbed them after about 10 seconds. I used the tiny synthetic stone cut-off wheel. I worked the skinny edge . A very steady hand is needed for this, as you generate the right angle, you must watch the back of the disk as not to remove material with this back side side of the cut-off wheel.
 
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