Tung oil on maple?

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I'm sanding away the satin finish on the neck of my rockbass. Is the regular tung oil I use ok for maple? will it darken the wood? if not what kind of oil should I use?
 
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Tung oil should darken the wood a bit, but not by much. If you want to really darken the wood, apply a stain and then follow that up with some coats of tung oil cut with mineral spirits (50/50 mix). I would also sand between tung oil applications with very fine sandpaper (somewhere between 600 and 100 grit)
 
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i dont wanna darken the wood. any oil i could use that wouldnt stain the wood?
 
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I recently refinished a WWII rifle (maple stock) with boiled linseed oil. It didn't really darken the wood much at all. I used a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.

tung oil & mineral spirits (again a 50/50 mix) without staining would be fine as well.

My suggestion would be to find a few pieces of scrap wood that are similar to the wood you want to treat and test out the tung oil as well as boiled linseed oil. No matter what oil you use, give the wood multiple coats with very fine sanding between coats. This will give you a pretty good idea of how the finished product will look.

When testing, you could also try different ratios of oil to mineral spirits but it is strongly suggested that you go with a mix containing between 25% and 50% mineral spirits. The mineral spirits will allow the oil to penetrate deeper in the wood before the oil cures.

Some people will start with a 50/50 mix with the first few applications, and gradually decrease the mineral spirits mix down to 25% for the final coat.

(added while Broken Thumb was posting on the same topic)
One quick cautionary note: If you apply the oil with a rag, make sure you dispose of the rag properly. Rags soaked with oil may spontaneously combust. The rag should not be crumpled, folded or compressed in any way until the oil has completely dried.
 
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Just a quick word to the wise. Beware of oily rags as they can and will spontaniously combust if not disposed of properly. Make sure your used rags are put into a bucket of water (preferable metal), and allowed to soak. Wring out execess liquid, and lie out flat on a non combustable surface to dry I was a bit surprised when I sanded and oiled the maple neck of my first bass with a boiled linseed oil, and almost burned my garage and house down due to an oily rag I had left on a shelf. Anyhow with the disaster averted, thanks to my trusty fire extinguisher, the neck turned out great. I also finished the job with with a couple of coats of the warwick wax about a week later. Good luck, Broken Thumb.
 
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why don't you use lemon oil, it works great and never stained my maple fretboard.
 
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hah noted about oily rags. thanks a load guys!

flipper: are you sure?! the Jim Dunlop lemon oil bottle says its not to be used on maple fretboards. doesnt it?
 
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Z3r0_G said:
hah noted about oily rags. thanks a load guys!

flipper: are you sure?! the Jim Dunlop lemon oil bottle says its not to be used on maple fretboards. doesnt it?

lol didn't know about it :? , always used a lemon oil that I found in an hardware centre. Did a good job. But I'll try to gather some info before using it again, thx for the info. Anyway boiled linseed oil is good too (from what I've heard, but never really tried it).

EDIT: I've been on the jim dunlop website and it didn't mentionned to not use it on maple. Maybe they just avoided to mention it for people to keep buying it.
 
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Casey

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Tung oil and Linseed oil over time will darken. As the wood oxidizes it will turn a yellowish color, Similar to the color of a vintage maple neck on a Fender.

Tung oil will cure to a semi-hard clear coat type finish. Linseed oil when cured is more of a flexible finish... Similar to polyurethane, But it doesn't harden as much.

For maple I prefer boiled linseed oil.
 
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flipper_gv said:
EDIT: I've been on the jim dunlop website and it didn't mentionned to not use it on maple. Maybe they just avoided to mention it for people to keep buying it.

Well, i got the bottle just next to me and i'd take a pic for ya but my phone on my camera isnt that sharp. it says (Note: not for use on maple fretboards.) :roll:

thumbin said:
Tung oil and Linseed oil over time will darken. As the wood oxidizes it will turn a yellowish color, Similar to the color of a vintage maple neck on a Fender.

Tung oil will cure to a semi-hard clear coat type finish. Linseed oil when cured is more of a flexible finish... Similar to polyurethane, But it doesn't harden as much.

For maple I prefer boiled linseed oil.

Hmmm i guess i'll just tung oil it a few times then wax it over. They don't have warwick wax where i am so i'll get carnauba wax from the billiards store. pool cue shafts are maple (i'm a regular pool player as well! =D)

thinking about it... i should wax the neck of my vette too. lately i've been using the lemon oil and i've noticed it soaks in a lot faster than the tung oil i've been previously using. feels a lot better too!
 
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You could just wax the neck,like Warwick do at the factory.
Just melt some Warwick wax & apply it to the neck,let it dry till it's tacky,then buff it off,then repeat.The good thing about trying this first is,it can be reversed.Oiling it is forever. :wink:
 
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Casey

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Z3r0_G said:
flipper_gv said:
EDIT: I've been on the jim dunlop website and it didn't mentionned to not use it on maple. Maybe they just avoided to mention it for people to keep buying it.

Well, i got the bottle just next to me and i'd take a pic for ya but my phone on my camera isnt that sharp. it says (Note: not for use on maple fretboards.) :roll:

thumbin said:
Tung oil and Linseed oil over time will darken. As the wood oxidizes it will turn a yellowish color, Similar to the color of a vintage maple neck on a Fender.

Tung oil will cure to a semi-hard clear coat type finish. Linseed oil when cured is more of a flexible finish... Similar to polyurethane, But it doesn't harden as much.

For maple I prefer boiled linseed oil.

Hmmm i guess i'll just tung oil it a few times then wax it over. They don't have warwick wax where i am so i'll get carnauba wax from the billiards store. pool cue shafts are maple (i'm a regular pool player as well! =D)

thinking about it... i should wax the neck of my vette too. lately i've been using the lemon oil and i've noticed it soaks in a lot faster than the tung oil i've been previously using. feels a lot better too!

The secret about using tung oil is polishing between coats with 0000 steelwool. Tung oil isn't like other oils such as linseed oil, Once tung oil drys it make a hard surface which you need to polish down with some 0000 steel wool and I also use a bit of linseed oil to do a wet polish. When first doing a bass I usually apply about 8-10 coats of tung oil polishing between coats with the 0000 steel wool and linseed oil. I then finish the bass with a little linseed oil and a clean rag. I then oil it once a month or so. Makes the wood all purty like and stuff.
 
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i can wax it even after i oil it right?
 
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Casey

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Z3r0_G said:
i can wax it even after i oil it right?

They claim wax will deteriorate a tung oil finish, Although I never had any problem with it. I have waxed over a tung oil finish many times and never had a problem. Although I do prefer linseed oil when I want to clean up the bass.
 

CaryTheLabelGuy

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I was going to sand down my Corvette Proine 6(currently is satin green). Because of it's highly flamed 4A maple, i want to keep the finish bright and clear, like the SS1's natural oil finish. When i finally grow the balls to sand my baby down, i will use the factory Warwick finish.....melted warwick wax.
 
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i've no idea how much of that beautiful maple you have to sand down mate, the oil coloured finish goes in the wood quite deep i think.. =/
 
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4A maple with colour? =( Except it's honey violin I'd take it that's a shame (Still, that maple must look KICKASSS!!!! ) pics? ^^
 

CaryTheLabelGuy

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These are pics of my Proline 6.....you can see why i would want it to be natural oil finish....
 

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