Help, I think my amp died!

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Hi, I am hoping someone can offer some advise, prior to having to take my BC80 off to some random guy to fix it here in the Philippines.

Here is the back story. I am an amateur bass player that uses playing as a means to relax and clear my head, while working from home. I find it more healthy than cigarettes, and less impactful on my work performance than vodka.

I have a BC80 amp I have had for about 5 years, that I generally use. I have a couple of other amps as well, but as I use a multi effects pedal, this one takes that more predicable than a valve amp. I usually leave amp turned on, and unplug the power from the effects pedal, so there is no outgoing signal, simply because it is up against a wall between my Marshall and the chair I generally sit in, which has my basses sitting on it, and the switch at the bottom of the back is hard to reach. The amp is usually set at around 2 to 3, because these buggers are quite loud, and there is a house directly behind me.

The other day, I noticed, as I walked into the room that there was a really bright red light showing on it, which is the Clipping Compressor light. Honestly, I had forgotten all about this as a feature, and never knew it was red. I read somewhere it goes orange with a overload signal, so I am thinking Red means bad.

I turned it of and on again, thinking the Windows cure all may help, but no joy. I unplugged everything, and it still red lighted me. other things to note is even when the power is switched off, it glows red, and slowly fades of. and is on at any volume with out anything plugged into either input.

Obviously the best answer is to take it to a service center, but from previous experience the Philippines is not known for the repair skills for electronic equipment, and advice would likely be throw it away and get a new one. Unfortunately I was raised with refillable pens and lighters not disposable items, and reluctant to do this. I have looked for a circuit diagram, but had no luck. With this and a multi meter, I believe I could at the very least determine where the fault is. I am assuming it is shorting in the input section, but would need further info to dial this in. I also don't see a lot of value in opening it up to look at stuff with out some sort of guide.

Can anyone offer me some clues as to having encountered similar issues (I searched the forum and could not find anything similar), any ideas as to what would cause it, any resources to aid in solving it, or the name of a reliable solid state amp guy (or girl) in Manila?

For further info, the effects unit is plugged into the passive input, not the send return, the volume was on 2, the aux volume was off, the EQ were all 12 oclock, the Effects unit was not powered up and if it had been was not on some ultra death metal distortion setting, it was a 70's rock bass setting emulating a warmish ampeg.
 
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Welcome, I chuckled at your cigarettes and vodka comment because it's damn well true.
You mention you dont turn the power off through the switch, but rather unplug the power completely.

Have you checked the fuse box?
I tried googling for the location of the fuses, but the first thing I found was a Talkbass post about someone trying to locate it themselves.
 
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According to something i read, the BC20, 40 and 80 don't have a fuse, however the big dog BC150 does. But the light, especially this threshold light does come on. there is not even a hum although these amps are quiet, but used to get some sound at 12 volume. i will go have a look, but think this is probabaly not the answer. Thanks for the comments, but.

Nice collection of basses you have there by the way. I don't have a Warwick, but have a rather rare Gibson Studio bass, with the Bartolini Active electronics.
 
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yeah, checked, no fuse, looks like fun to try and open up, the amp is attached from the top mount bolts, but no clear way to take the back off. the red light come on immediately on powering up and fades off over 10 second when switched off
 

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So with no further advise, I have pulled it apart and will commence testing. I suspect a burnt out transformer. there is some discoloration on the winding wrapper. Prior to this I did further test to determine if the fault was in the Preamp, but taking a line from the line out to another amp, but it is completely silent.

For reference, the controls are on a separate pcb board commented with a ribbon cable. The Main chassis can be seen by shining a light into the port at the bottom of the front. Removal is by removing the Grill, then the speaker, and unplugging the horn speaker. Removal of the chassis is via 6 bolts, the 4 surrounding the nameplate on the back, and 2 on the base of the cabinet. once this was out, I was able to unplug the speaker and the ribbon cable from the Chassis PCB. As an aside, the layout of the PCB is very neat, and there is a large heat sink attached to the 7293 chip. the assembly workmanship is good, but a couple of components were not mounted flat and sit about 8mm above the board. there are 2 fuses on the main pcb, but it would be near on impossible to pull then out, without removing the whole chassis from the cabinet. These are 3.15 slow blow glass fuses of standard 5x20mm dimensions.
 

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From your description, it sounds like you have the amp in a tight space and you leave it powered for extended periods. From a search on the internet, it appears these amps have a history of overheating. That may be something to explore. Proper ventillation is very important. The clipping LED may double as an over temp indicator. Transformers get hot under normal use, so the discoloration of the wrapping on the transformer could be normal. When the windings in a transformer do short, there is often an obvious burn mark on the outer wrapper. I have never seen an electronic device that has an indicator light for a blown fuse. Usually, when a fuse blows, there are no lights or function at all in the circuitry protected by the fuse, or any indicator that a fuse has failed. Usually, when and unfused appliance has a serious short, it will trip a circuit breaker in your home's breaker panel. A lesser short will often result in a burned electronics smell. With a device that has multiple circuit boards, unless you can obtain a tech manual with schematics and values, there is not a lot you can do. If it is like the newer low end Ampeg amp I had, there are no component level replacement parts for the circuit boards.....only replacement circuit board assemblies. If the problem is on one of the boards, a new replacement board, if available, may well cost more than the amp is worth. Hopefully, it is a minor problem that you can solve on your own. Good luck and be very careful not to get shocked.
 
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Further update, I have isolated the problem to the postive rail in the power supply. Negative side is -30v, and positive side is .6 millivolts. Upstream of the resistors is 50v on each side, so the resistor has gone bad, or it is shorting through one of the components here, most likely the zener diode. I have ordered some replacement parts, and will update if and when it gets fixed. Regarding the schematics, an email to Warwick service department got a response within a few hours
 
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Hey Fakarwi, did you ever get your amp going again? The red light compressor thing just happened to my bc80 amp, and I'd love to get it up and going again.
 
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Yeah - bump - did you fix the amp? Many moons ago I fixed a Warwick CCL which blew a component due to a ribbon cable shaking itself off (not impressed with that one) - I remember the satisfaction of getting it working again. It was rock solid after that until I sold it! Funky little amp, that was: the wheels and trolley handle on it came in very handy on more than one occasion.
 
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