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Bridge Set Up

Discussion in 'Bass Hardware, Setup & Repair' started by Roy Vest, May 22, 2020.

  1. Roy Vest

    Roy Vest

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    I watched some video and read the manual but I think something is getting lost in translation. I understand the middle screw unlocks the bridge, and both(?) move the bridge up and down. When moving it do you move the screw equal to set the bridge equally or is one side going to be lower. Idk I coming from fender and rickenbackers so it’s a little strange for me lol. I appreciate any advice.
     
  2. DiMarco

    DiMarco nutcase Good Vibe Sponsor

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    The pressure from the bridge should be divided equally between the two allen screws. This way resonation from the strings is transfered to the body in the most optimal way.
     
  3. Roy Vest

    Roy Vest

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    The four screws on the outer part? Not the two middle right?
     
  4. DiMarco

    DiMarco nutcase Good Vibe Sponsor

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    The two middle ones are locking screws. Once you are happy with the height of your bridge after adjusting it with the four corner screws, fix it in position by tightening these two in the middle .
     
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  5. Roy Vest

    Roy Vest

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    How do you know how low you should go? Sorry to keep asking all these questions but you guys have been a big help. That bass was set up like a dumpster fire and now it’s starting to get right.
     
  6. DiMarco

    DiMarco nutcase Good Vibe Sponsor

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    Hi Roy,

    It is absolutely no problem to ask questions. Many of us here on the forum (if not all of us) are willing and able to help with any uncertainties you may have about setting up and using your Warwick bass.

    Let's go through things in the right order so your bass will end up playing fast and smooth shall we?

    1. Truss rod adjustment. Make sure the truss rod is set up right. You already know the drill holding down the first and either 12th or 24th fret to see what your neck bow is like. I like my necks almost completely straight. Rule of thumb is when holding down the string at 1st and 12th fret a folded business card worth of space will still be available at the 5th-7th fret. In my case the business card is not folded - I have my neck just a little more straight then most as this helps tremendously with slapping and tapping techniques across the neck.

    2. Setting up the action at the bridge and adjustable nut. You are currently here. I will elaborate further down this post.

    3. Setting up bridge sadles for perfect intonation and adjusting the pickup heights.

    Here's three videos from Warwick going through all these steps in order:







    Now then. Where you're at right now is the middle of the three videos.
    The bridge of a Warwick requires some getting used to because it has so many moving parts makes it hard to know where to start so let me explain to you how I do this:

    First I lower the individual saddles for the two outer strings all the way to the bottom. On my five string that's the B and G strings, on your six string the B and C.
    Then I lower or raise the whole bridge using the allen screws on either side of the bridge. First loosen the middle locking screws on either side, otherwise it won't move.

    With the bass more or less in tune, I put the bridge at a height where the two outer strings are barely touching the last frets. I do this so now I can adjust the individual string heights of the other strings to do exactly the same. When this part is finished, my bridge saddles are following the radius of the frets exactly. This will allow for perfect action in a minute.

    Now that all the heights of the bridge saddles are lined up perfectly, I start raising the whole bridge until I get no fretbuzz anywhere when playing softly to moderatly. With the action now being as low as possible, you might notice getting some buzz going on from the fret you play towards the headstock. If this is the case first visually check out if your truss rod is not too tight. If the truss rod is just right, you may want to raise your Just-a-nut a tiny bit at this point. On a six string bass do this with the strings loosened or the little allen screws inside the nut might go funny on you resulting in having to order a new nut.

    At this point your action will be perfect, and you can commence fine tuning the intonation on each individual string saddle. The last video explains this perfectly. Don't forget to tighten the locking screws in the bridge saddles when you're done. Last step is possibily adjusting your pickup height. Warwick use 2mm between the string and pickup, I usually have more space because that simply feels better when playing. There is no golden rule here.

    Good luck finding the perfect setup that suits your playing style!
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2020
  7. Roy Vest

    Roy Vest

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    Wow that really helped a lot, thank you so much. The bass feels amazing now. Idk why but reading you explanation helped more than the video alone so I really appreciate it.
     
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