2006 Warwick FNA Jazzman

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Hello all.I am the proud owner of a German made 2006 Warwick FNA Jazzman 4 string.
I have an inward bow in the neck.
The Bass info is (K 130111 06 - 1324360000GDAFMOWW) Natural oil, MEC J/MM 4 fretted wenge, body Swamp Ash / A Flamed Maple top, Neck Ovenkol etc.
My Luthier has adjusted the truss rod but has said that it is adjusted to the maximum and the only solution is to replace the truss rod.
However when we checked the manual and looked online there seems to be a lot of confusion as to which truss rod is in my bass and if it can be easily removed and replaced without having to take the neck apart.
I am including a photo of the serial number and year of the bass and also the truss rod tool supplied with the bass
2006 FNA Jazzman.jpg
There is lots of info on easily replacing the truss rod on basses up to 1996.
I am also going to contact Warwick to find out if my truss rod can easily replaced.
I am hoping that someone on the forum here has had to replace the truss rod on my year and my type of bass.
Thank you for any advice you can give me.
Victor
 
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I'm actually quite surprised how fast he took the fretboard off, maybe 30 mins max.
 
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It takes a lot longer than 30 minutes: video was not live/full. I segment my video's. I have done 3 of these truss rod removals/replacements. Those above were the second and third ones. Victor (Fret Friend Guitar Workshop)...
 
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Hello all.I am the proud owner of a German made 2006 Warwick FNA Jazzman 4 string.
I have an inward bow in the neck.
The Bass info is (K 130111 06 - 1324360000GDAFMOWW) Natural oil, MEC J/MM 4 fretted wenge, body Swamp Ash / A Flamed Maple top, Neck Ovenkol etc.
My Luthier has adjusted the truss rod but has said that it is adjusted to the maximum and the only solution is to replace the truss rod.
However when we checked the manual and looked online there seems to be a lot of confusion as to which truss rod is in my bass and if it can be easily removed and replaced without having to take the neck apart.
I am including a photo of the serial number and year of the bass and also the truss rod tool supplied with the bass View attachment 23184 There is lots of info on easily replacing the truss rod on basses up to 1996.
I am also going to contact Warwick to find out if my truss rod can easily replaced.
I am hoping that someone on the forum here has had to replace the truss rod on my year and my type of bass.
Thank you for any advice you can give me.
Victor
You have to remove the fretboard to get the truss rod out! All truss-rods are non-removable after 1996 on Warwick's). I have replaced 3 (the video's posted here are mine)...
 
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Hello The other Victor! It looks like my only choice is to get my luthier to replace the truss rod and take the fretboard off.
However on another Warwick forum another guy who is a Luthier has suggested this.
(You don't necessarily need to replace the truss rod because the rod has no more adjustment. You can create adjustment room be reflexing the neck. That is clamp the neck in a reverse bow and heat it up with the truss rod completely loose when the wood settles down it reforms more reverse bowed about 1/16 of an inch negative allowing the strings to pull it forward enough to make the wood want to flex forward causing a lot of room for adjustment again because the truss rod has gained it back)
On my bass there is no curve left or right curve in the neck it just has a small forward bow as in the strings are slightly higher in the center of the neck eg. higher on the A note on the E string than at the top or bottom of the fretboard.
I can't find anything online on using reflexing the neck to solve the bow without having to remove the fretboard.
As you are obviously a Luthier yourself do you think this process might work in my situation and have you ever come across this method of solving a bow in the neck without removing the fretboard.
Thank you for your reply and any advice you might have,
Cheers The Other Victor!
 
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Hello The other Victor! It looks like my only choice is to get my luthier to replace the truss rod and take the fretboard off.
However on another Warwick forum another guy who is a Luthier has suggested this.
(You don't necessarily need to replace the truss rod because the rod has no more adjustment. You can create adjustment room be reflexing the neck. That is clamp the neck in a reverse bow and heat it up with the truss rod completely loose when the wood settles down it reforms more reverse bowed about 1/16 of an inch negative allowing the strings to pull it forward enough to make the wood want to flex forward causing a lot of room for adjustment again because the truss rod has gained it back)
On my bass there is no curve left or right curve in the neck it just has a small forward bow as in the strings are slightly higher in the center of the neck eg. higher on the A note on the E string than at the top or bottom of the fretboard.
I can't find anything online on using reflexing the neck to solve the bow without having to remove the fretboard.
As you are obviously a Luthier yourself do you think this process might work in my situation and have you ever come across this method of solving a bow in the neck without removing the fretboard.
Thank you for your reply and any advice you might have,
Cheers The Other Victor!
That method can work (I have done it) but in the 3 instances I have replaced a Warwick truss-rod: each time, the neck was twisted (so needed straightening) or the fruss rod thread was stripped! I made a video on straightening (or reverse-bending) necks here:

 
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Hi Victor.
That sounds like the method that the other Luthier was talking about.
What do you think of his idea of completely loosening the truss rod before doing the reverse bending as he claims?
And it also sounds like he removes the strings before doing the reverse bending
(about 1/16 of an inch negative allowing the strings to pull it forward enough to make the wood want to flex forward)
(with the truss rod completely loose when the wood settles down it reforms more reverse bowed about 1/16 of an inch negative allowing the strings to pull it forward enough to make the wood want to flex forward causing a lot of room for adjustment again because the truss rod has gained it back)

He says that when you do it this way you will gain more adjustment in the truss rod should you need to adjust the bow in either direction?
What do you think?
Again thank you very much for your input.
Cheers Victor
 
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Hi Victor.
That sounds like the method that the other Luthier was talking about.
What do you think of his idea of completely loosening the truss rod before doing the reverse bending as he claims?
And it also sounds like he removes the strings before doing the reverse bending
(about 1/16 of an inch negative allowing the strings to pull it forward enough to make the wood want to flex forward)
(with the truss rod completely loose when the wood settles down it reforms more reverse bowed about 1/16 of an inch negative allowing the strings to pull it forward enough to make the wood want to flex forward causing a lot of room for adjustment again because the truss rod has gained it back)

He says that when you do it this way you will gain more adjustment in the truss rod should you need to adjust the bow in either direction?
What do you think?
Again thank you very much for your input.
Cheers Victor
It may or may not work! My fear is, if you bend the neck too much the wrong way: you may weaken the bond between the actual neck and the fingerboard. It could (and should) work but you may not get enough adjustment: there are no guarantees. Definitely have the strings off and the truss rod in the neutral poisition (if it's dual action) or loose (if it's a one way truss rod). In my experiance, the Warwicks have a 2-directional dual truss rod so you will have to fing the neutral (central) position...

PS: I am not a luthier (I never built a stringed instrument). If there is a label for what I do: I am a guitar tech that modifies, repairs stringed instruments...
 
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It may or may not work! My fear is, if you bend the neck too much the wrong way: you may weaken the bond between the actual neck and the fingerboard. It could (and should) work but you may not get enough adjustment: there are no guarantees. Definitely have the strings off and the truss rod in the neutral poisition (if it's dual action) or loose (if it's a one way truss rod). In my experiance, the Warwicks have a 2-directional dual truss rod so you will have to fing the neutral (central) position...

PS: I am not a luthier (I never built a stringed instrument). If there is a label for what I do: I am a guitar tech that modifies, repairs stringed instruments...
Hi Victor I think the truss rod for my bass which is a 2006 4 string FNA JazzMan is this one

Warwick Parts - 2-Way Truss Rod, Steel 630 mm (post 1996)
Here is the Link to the truss rods on the Warwick website and there seems to be only one the post 1996 that would appear to be the one for my bass
Do you think that is the truss rod for my bass?
I am trying to get as much info as possible before I go back to my Luthier. They build some lovely basses but I can't afford any of them!!
On my bass I only need about 1.5mm in the center to make it perfect and I will pass on your info to him and see what he thinks.
He only speaks Spanish so thats why he has asked me to get as much info as possible.
You are very knowledgeable about basses so maybe you should have a go at building one?
Thanks again
Victor

 

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Hi Victor I think the truss rod for my bass which is a 2006 4 string FNA JazzMan is this one

Warwick Parts - 2-Way Truss Rod, Steel 630 mm (post 1996)

Here is the Link to the truss rods on the Warwick website and there seems to be only one the post 1996 that would appear to be the one for my bass

Do you think that is the truss rod for my bass?

I am trying to get as much info as possible before I go back to my Luthier. They build some lovely basses but I can't afford any of them!!

On my bass I only need about 1.5mm in the center to make it perfect and I will pass on your info to him and see what he thinks.

He only speaks Spanish so thats why he has asked me to get as much info as possible.

You are very knowledgeable about basses so maybe you should have a go at building one?

Thanks again

Victor

That is the correct truss rod (it is the same as the 3 I replaced): https://shop.warwick.de/de/ersatzte...-parts-2-way-truss-rod-steel-630-mm-post-1996
 
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Thank you so much for your advice. I will pass all this info on to my Luthier and see what he thinks.
Whatever the result I will update this post and let you know how I get on.
I love my Warwick bass and the bow is not that bad and it is still very playable but during these times I will have to wait if it needs the fretboard to be taken offand the truss rod replaced as I know I can't afford that at the moment!.
However I don't want to ruin the bass either!
I'll let you know how I get on.
Thanks for all your advice and have a Great Sunday and Stay Safe:)
Cheers from the other Victor!
 
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