Show Your Pedalboards (Evo) Then

PaulS

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Yes pretty much want to be able to program a few sets of sounds, and have a bank system so I can have different groups of times together. Also if I could also control the strymons independently and use the pedal to scroll through the presets. I’ve been recommended the boss es5 (seems maybe too much) and some of the disaster area stuff. Just was wondering who uses anything like this in real life. I of course trust the guys here more than other forums
 

DiMarco

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Since I also play guitar again, there is the need for two boards.
I am piecing stuff together today but so far so good I think...

On the bass board we have:
  • Your simple generic tuner. Main feat: It is black.
  • Totally worldclass compressor. Nothing beats this one.
  • Tight but fat fuzz a-la Chris Wolstenholme
  • Geddy OD, which of course also does Chris Squire and Dug Pinnick tone.
  • Tremolo! No bassist should ever leave home without one, imho! hahaha
  • Tube pre that fixes the dry and dead and empty and meaningless and dull and useless and lacking heft sound of any Warwick class D amplifier I may use. ;-)

fxbass.jpg


My tone with the Ric and Hyperjazz is nothing short of STELLAR now. Haven't tested it with the active basses yet.
When the tube amp is fixed, the Le Bass will probably be used for D.I. applications only.

-~-

Then there's the guitar side of things. I use a Fender tube amplifier combo that has no reverb built in so the Trinity is always on.
There's wah, overdrive, fuzz and overdrivefuzz. The Royal Jelly works well on bass too, but on guitar it really shines.
Its organic blend of overdrive and fuzz, and the possibility to have two separate blends to switch between makes it grande.
But sometimes you want your fuzz tone to sound dry and filthy, kinda like Jack White. For this flavor there's the plasma pedal.

I still have to hook things up but the plan is this:

fxguit.jpg


Also, I strongly dislike any and all frequency modulation effects on guitar.
They always sound overly cheesy - so I left those off my boards. Rock & Roll baby!!! To hell with the eighties!

-~-
 
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Well I have been at it again...

b7ku sold hesitantly..AOU just is better in every way. Replaced with Source Audio Aftershock which so far has been a great bit of fun to play with. Still very new (got it mega cheap)..

I also added the Source Audio Nemesis because it is another great fun bit of kit that I dont need. Totally dont regret it again was a bargain.

I also added the Digitech Jamman to get into looping fun...still need to learn this properly and get the control switch going but I think it will be worth it.

Lastly...was the silliest pedal I have bought.. the Darkglass Hyperluminal.. Bought because it was the Black limited edition. Still learning it but it does some cool things my Super Symmetry didn't that have sounded better than the SS so thats cool.

I am also gathering momentum on a couple of DIY dirt pedals that will be super cool if i can pull it off.

looking forward to the holidays and upcoming shows to have some fun with it all..
 
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Recently been jamming a whole lot of Tool for fun..One nifty little device has opened up a whole lot of fun for me.. The Evenmidi Pitchy that turns the H9 into a whammy pedal which for playing tool bass is a must have item. I kicked the looper out but I am happy to plug it in when wanted/needed. Played an outdoor show with the big rig and got excellent feedback from all except the guitar players who cry!! fun times
 
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I've decided that I hate the Nano POG. Looks like I'll be bringing my 8-string to certain gigs again. As for octave-down, I'm still trying to find something different than the ultra-trendy Boss OC-2. I've put the Digitech Bass Synth Wah on there for now. If you use it in mode 7 and turn the sensitivity and range all the way down, the control knob lets you dial in a sub-octave. You can't do the "octave only" thing that so many OC-2 users like, but I never do that anyway. This thing actually sounds way fatter than the OC-2.

I'll post an updated photo if this configuration actually sticks for awhile. I still kind of want to pick up an MXR Bass Octave Deluxe. I really like the dual voices in that.
 
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National Holiday here in NZ today
Going to pull the pedal board to bits
There's something wrong with it and I also want to split my signal
 

DiMarco

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Splitting signal is nice, opens up a lot of new possibilities.
Keep in mind though that some overdrive pedals inverse polarity on your signal.
If your signal splitter can counter that, this would be great.
 
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Heres my current setup. Trying out a collaberation devices compressor.

20191105_183345.jpg
So far I really like it. Compared to my cali76 is not as dark which is good. And it has a VU meter. Ha ha

mine is number 66 and first one he has sold into New Zealand.
 
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Splitting signal is nice, opens up a lot of new possibilities.
Keep in mind though that some overdrive pedals inverse polarity on your signal.
If your signal splitter can counter that, this would be great.

Not entirely sure what this means sorry

I know the Diamond Compressor is different power that tampers with other pedals

Someone that knows this shit I'm catching up with tomorrow so hoping things are sorted.
 

DiMarco

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If a pedal inverses polarity on the signal, it flips the output waveform upside down.
When you blend that flipped waveform with the original output coming from the bass, the two waveforms cancel each other out.
This will result in a complete loss of low end.

The Mosquite Blender has its own fxloop with dry/wet mix plus a little switch to fix this problem if it occurs.
The Fender ABY can switch between A/B outputs or function as a Y splitter.
The Morley TwinMix has separate volume dials and can rejoin the A+B signals from the Fender ABY.

I bought the Mosquite Blender (which is also an active buffer) after working with the ABY+TwinMix for a while, it is much easier and has a much smaller footprint.


20191105_100528.jpg
 
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Update! Obviously I'm not a great photographer, so here's what you're looking at:

TC Polytune 2 => Digitech Bass Synth Wah => Boss LS-2 Line Selector

A loop of LS-2: Way Huge Green Rhino => Stomp Under Foot Civil Unrest => EHX Enigma Q-Balls

B loop of LS-2: EHX Bass Clone

After the LS-2: Source Audio Orbital Modulator => Markbass Compressore => MXR Bass Preamp

Pedalboard 11102019.JPG
 

Hardy

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Hi mates: question.

I‘m not used to pedals, now it’s time to change this. I‘m also not used to painting, it will stay this way. :D
What I want to know: can I put the tuner onto the end of the line? I want two separate lines for 8 string and 4 string. My Korg Pitchblack+ has two „in“ and one „out“, so it works as a switch too. That’s why I had this idea. And in the 8 string line: first the chorus, then the Fuzz, right?

20FA68C8-0ABD-4191-A771-D66741B12C0E.jpeg
 

DiMarco

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The B3K will be nice on the 8 string as well my friend. Why not have all effects available for both instruments?
I would connect everything in series in this order:

Instruments -> Korg Pitchblack+ -> B3K -> Fuzz -> Chorus -> Amp

This way you can still switch between instruments with the Korg.
Feeding a little overdrive into a fuzz often makes it sound more buttery and organic.
Modulation effects, reverbs and delays always like to sit at the end of the fx chain otherwise the fuzz will simply kill them.
 

Hardy

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The B3K will be nice on the 8 string as well my friend. Why not have all effects available for both instruments?
I would connect everything in series in this order:

Instruments -> Korg Pitchblack+ -> B3K -> Fuzz -> Chorus -> Amp

This way you can still switch between instruments with the Korg.
Feeding a little overdrive into a fuzz often makes it sound more buttery and organic.
Modulation effects, reverbs and delays always like to sit at the end of the fx chain otherwise the fuzz will simply kill them.

Ok, I feel dumb now. I forgot those switch on/switch off thingies on the pedals.

The LS2 allows me to mix the clean signal with the Morley Power Fuzz Wah. Mucho needed. The Morley is that brutal that without the clean signal you only get wild noises.

The Darkglass I will use to add "juice" to the sound in a metal kind of way, the 8 string will get some more overdriven/fuzzy sounds. Too bad: the 4 string needs different settings from the 8 string when using the Morley. Maybe this will be less a problem when I have two Buzzards with the same electronics and pickups running. But maybe the octave strings are the point.

In the end I want a gigboard for live activities. No turning and tweaking of knobs, no noises, no risk of malfunction. It will take time, I know. And I have to learn a lot, I know this too. Help much appreciated!
 

DiMarco

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OKAY. So I hooked up the two pedals above in parallel configuration and added a switch so I could A/B test them.

On paper, both pedals pull the same trick. They split the signal between low frequencies and high frequencies, and apply distortion on only the high frequencies.
In reality, these two pedals sound nothing like one another.

Tech21 Sansamp YYZ

This is the more simple of the two pedals. It has Low, Mid and High EQ which only operate when the distortion is on. There is a "Tight" button that selects between full range distortion or only high frequency range distortion. You can not choose from which frequency this operates. The high pass filter inside seems to have a not so steep frequency cutoff so a lot of your mids are distorted, too. There is a blend knob to let you dial in just the right dose of distortion to your taste. Because of the midrange also being distorted, when you dial in too much of the dirt the pedal loses focus and sounds like something in your rig is broken. This is awesome for oldskool prog and punkrock tone! The pedal excels with passive, more oldskool sounding instruments and REALLY shines with the good old Rickenbacker 4001.

Darkglass Microtubes X Ultra

The fact this being a fullblown bass pre-amp with built in cab simulator on its XLR and headphone outputs where the YYZ is just dirtbox means I only took the dirtbox functionality on this pedal into consideration while comparing. When you buy this, the first thing you do is hook it up to your computer to upgrade its firmware using the Darkglass suite software, and making a backup of its configuration. What you also want to do is enable its built-in compressor to be switched on/off by holding the bypass switch. You enable this functionality using the same software. I honestly have no idea why this great functionality is switched off by default? Once activated, you can hold the bypass switch to see the EQ leds turn from red to blue. Blue means fullrange comp, red means low frequency comp but only when the distortion channel is enabled.

That said, on with the show: The X ultra has a nice six band graphic EQ built in which takes some getting used to but really enables you to sculpt your clean tone. The YYZ can't do this so we'll focus on the distortion side of things. The X allows you to select the frequency from which the high range distortion operates where the YYZ does not. The X also allows you from which frequency down you can boost and compress the bottom end. The cutoff frequency filters seem to be more steep then that of the YYZ so even when trying to dial in the same frequency, the pedals would still not sound anything alike. Besides this the distortion on the X sounds a lot tighter then the one on the YYZ. This makes the X really shine with more modern sounding basses like the Warwick and Zons I have, but also work really well with the other basses.

Ergo

Tech21 YYZ is a really nice bass distortion that allows you to sound like having a bi-amp bass+guitar rig if you want oldskool prog tone. It is a one trick pony.

Darkglass X ultra is a fullblown bass pre that allows you to do the same besides giving you a great clean tone as well. It is a one pedal solution that might just replace the rest of my pedalboard.
 
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