Best Method To Smooth Neck Lamination Unevenness?

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Hey folks,

I've got a 2006 Streamer Jazzman incoming tomorrow and it displays some unevenness in the laminations from the volute area to the top of the headstock. I've seen it before but just wouldn't mind advice on it etc.

Streamer Jazzman neck 1.JPG
Streamer Jazzman neck 2.JPG
Streamer Jazzman neck 3.JPG
Streamer Jazzman neck 4.JPG
 
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... the pics are form the sale thread, I'm sure the seller won't mind :cool:
 

Hoggles

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I'm not sure how you could do it, without sanding that area. And that of course would result in the finish in that area, needing to be refinished. And that would result in it being really really (did I say really?) difficult to match to the old finish etc.

If it were me, I'd have some fun and do a complete refinish. Sand the entire body and neck. Finish it with Wax or whatever you want. You'll have a like new Streamer. I imagine most of the peeps on here will say just to leave it alone. I'm a big fan of sandpaper though :)
 
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.... interesting comments. I had thought about trying to make it newish again. Do you know how easy it is to refinish the coloured oil finishes, how deep down to you have to sand in order to remove all the colour, and would that change the body shape at all? On the neck the finish isn't a major concern as it's not really finished is it, just Ovangkol oiled so I could probably refinish the neck fairly easily on it's own. Anyhow thanks for the comment, always appreciated.
 

Hoggles

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That's a good question I've often thought of. How much sanding is required to remove the color. The only Wick I've restored, was my '04 Thumb. No worries about body shape, unless you have to take off a lot of wood to get rid of the color etc. And you don't really want to sand off too much wood as is. The layer over the control cavity is pretty thin to begin with.

Yeah for sure....Just refinish the neck.
 

schlobodan

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simply sand and refinish the neck
no big Deal
 
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... I'll end up with the Geddy Lee version of a Warwick if I'm not careful :D
 

schlobodan

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sand until you feel the seams no more - the stop :)
 
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Any advice on the grade please? Would you suggest working down from say P400 to P1200 or similar? Some peeps use wire wool, just an alternative to abrasive paper I presume?
 

Hoggles

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I think I went with 180>240>320>400

I think. Anything over 600 grit is not needed on something like a bass/guitar. 600 and above are typically more for polishing between coats of paint or varnish etc.

I wouldn't use steel wool on the wood....It'll leave residue/color.
 
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Cheers Hoggles, nice to have something to work from. Will let you all know how it goes :cool:
 
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.... it appears I've managed to snap the truss rod, oh dear :eek:.

Anyone have a spare neck I can buy off them o_O
 
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.... and yes, I've done previous Warwick necks up much tighter, who knows hey!!
 

schlobodan

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necks are rare

I would try to remove the fretboard and replace the rod
 
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... thanks, I've emailed a local luthier about the potential cost (Jon Shuker of Shuker basses, if you haven't heard of him check them out!).

Would it be wise to get a replacement Warwick rod (a steel one is only about £20, however do you know if the aluminium ones that are closer to £80 are a direct fit
as them seem of a different design) or use a decent aftermarket one that Jon might know about?
 
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Hey, I'm even considering trying to do it myself as a new rod is only around £30 delivered from Warwick. Neck isn't in fantastic shape as it is (looks nice, but slight twist). I'll see if I'm brave enough lol!
 

Hoggles

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Hey, I'm even considering trying to do it myself as a new rod is only around £30 delivered from Warwick. Neck isn't in fantastic shape as it is (looks nice, but slight twist). I'll see if I'm brave enough lol!

For sure. There are several tutorials online. As with any job...make sure you have the right tools...and a lot of patience. And as far as tools go....it would mostly be a clothes iron and a flat scraper tool. Something I've seen before, is when a fretboard is removed for any length of time, it's good to clamp it down, with even pressure all across, on a level surface. After being heated up...it wants to warp easily...so it's important to stop that and make sure it holds it's shape, while you work on the truss rod etc.

Definitely something anyone can do.

Good luck!! Keep us updated.
 
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